In the weeks running up to the CC’s inaugural winter meeting at Risag, the hills of Scotland appeared to be bare for February. With two weeks to go, I picked up Covid, probably from the Eyam Ceilidh. It appeared that the game of Scottish winter climbing was playing its usual deck of cards, the one of never really being sure of the outcome. It reminded me of the opening lines of Dickens’ A Tale of Two Cities, “It was the best of times, it was the worst of times…… it was the spring of hope, it was the winter of despair….”
I delayed my departure, which meant our pizza evening would have to wait until I tested negative. The meet started well with a great forecast of high pressure for the week and a spectacular Northern Lights show. Father and son team, Andrew and Michael Porter got a day in sunny sport climbing at Moy Rock. On their way up Tim Sparrow, Michael Clegg, Caleb East and Matt Lewis snuck in a traverse of the Aonach Eagach Ridge, which started off frosty though quickly changed to glorious sunshine and a summer romp.
Attention quickly turned to Ben Nevis as its height would provide icy conditions, with the likes of Thompson’s Route, Comb Gully, Three Gully Buttress and the Corie Na Ciste gullies and buttresses providing good warm ups for multiple teams – some already established and others arranged on the meet.
The ideally positioned hut, meant on seeing the possibility of a snap change in conditions in the Cairngorms, Piers Harley and Kevin Pilgrim were able to make the morning dash over the next day for an ascent of Hoarmaster (VI,6), which put up a bit of a fight. The two Julians and Dan made an ascent of the very good ‘The Message’ (IV,6).
I arrived on Tuesday evening and we had our social Pizza evening which was a good jolly affair. The long walk-ins and back to back days on the Ben meant various tactics had to be used to ease those strains with some stashing the heavier gear in hidden places and others making use of the glorious sunshine to climb at the accessible Poll Dubh, Glen Nevis. Various ascents were made including the Storm (HVS, 5a), Plague of Blazes (E2 5c), Travellin Man (E2 5c), Damnation (VS) and Revelation (VS). Tim got the excitement of belaying and catching Tom Pearce on High Flyer (E5), who got it second go.
Once again attention turned to the higher areas on the Ben. I walked in with Piers and Cat Mckenna to try the classic Green Gully, however with the after effects of Covid I decided it might be best not to strain myself and left them to a very enjoyable romp up a classic. Over the next few days Julian and Dan climbed the plum lines of Smiths Route (V), Two Step Corner (V) and Indicator Right Hand (V). Conditions were so still on the Ben that at one point a paraglider was able to take off from it and fly around the climbers. Aonach Mor also provided some sport for Chris and Michael who made an ascent of the classic Left Twin (III).
We lucked out with very stable weather and had a varied week across a broad spectrum of climbs and activities with even a couple of Munros being ticked by Graham and Chris. Hopefully next year there might be enough snow to add skiing to the list!
Attendees – Graeme Hammond, Andrew Wilson, Paul Winder, Piers Harley, Andrew Porter, Michael Porter, Tim Sparrow, Michael Clegg, Caleb East, Cat Mckenna, Graham Jones, Chris Manasseh, Kevin Roet, Julian Prieto, Daniel Metcalfe, Julian Duxfield, Matt Lewis, Simon Brocklebank, Kevin Pilgrim, John Higgs. Mark Stevenson. And to those who had to cancel at the last minute due to health concerns, we wish them a speedy recovery.
Great week for you all and a great number of good routes done well done all involved .
I watched the team on Hoarmaster from Savage Slit and even have a few piccies of my own. It was the best day & conditions I experienced over 4 separate trips this winter.