Lundy

If you are planning a climbing trip to Lundy this year please read/download the document below:

Lundy Climbing Restrictions 2019

Dan McManus on Watching the Ocean (E6, Squires View Zawn) Photo Copyright David Pickford (www.davidpickford.com)

This is a completely revised edition of the 1994 guide by Gary Gibson and Paul Harrison. This time, Paul is the sole author, and he has been ably assisted by Simon Cardy and Neil Dickson. Just under 1000 climbs are described, an increase of over 200 on the old guide.

PLEASE NOTE: Abseil stakes are NOT to be placed on the grass slope above the descents. Lundy is a SSSI and the approaches to all the cliffs on the island can be safeguarded with enough rope and common sense. If we are to continue enjoying the very good relationship we have with Lundy and the Landmark Trust then climbers are requested not place any further stakes or leave unnecessary abseil slings in place.

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Free sample download Landing Craft Bay

Simon has produced a new set of colour photodiagrams, photomaps, and maps (50 in total). Simon has also collected together a stunning set of action photos (many taken by himself), including a number of double page spreads. These show the full range of Lundy’s climbing, with good routes at all grades.

Dave Pickford has contributed a section on Deep Water Soloing. As befits the island, most of the solos described are at the harder and more adventurous end of the scale, and all require a high tide! For those who like lists, the guide has an Alternative Lundy List (for those who have done the most obvious routes) and a Lundy Esoterica page (for those who really want to get off the beaten track!). A full colour 34cm x 20mmap of the island (printed on the same waterproof paper as the BMC maps) is also included with the guide. The fills the gap left when the island shop stopped selling the 5 inches to the mile map, which in the past climbers have found so useful.

Neil Dickson’s Chronology has collated the Historical and First Ascents sections. Neil himself has been responsible for some of Lundy’s hardest new routes, including the island’s first E9, and he has compiled a detailed history of the climbing on the island, together with quotations, both old and new, from those involved in the island’s climbing.

The book is produced in the Climbers’ Club’s new all-colour format, which has enabled the author and the team to do justice to the fascinating, isolated and adventurous nature of the island and its climbing.

Potential future bird restriction (provided by Alan Evans): This year 2008, in May, there were Ravens nesting on the ledge just below the top on Destiny, they had chicks and we had to report it to the warden and the crag was banned. If you are planning at trip then keep an eye on this in case they make it a regular site, as in the past Landing Craft has been exempt from bans, this will no longer be the case if the Ravens make it a regular home.

See the Meets page for information about the club’s annual Lundy week – a fantastic mix of good accommodation, great company in a remote and tranquil environment, and some of the most adventurous climbing the UK has to offer!

For general information about the island, see http://www.lundyisland.co.uk

For information on booking accommodation, see http://www.landmarktrust.org.uk

Updates

Downloadable update to the 2008 guide:

• Lundy Climbing Restrictions 2019
• Lundy_Update 2018