Carreg-y-Barcud, Pembroke North

Submitted by: Gavin Cytlau
Crag: Carreg-y-Barcud
Date of ascent: 14/04/2015
Climbers: Gavin Cytlau. Henry Castle

Woodcroft On Sea

Length/grade/stars: 24m E1 5a

Start location:

Start as for Watch with Mother.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the start of Watch with Mother but then follow the grassy crack system to a vegetated ledge. Shuffle left to the arête then finish carefully. Not that well protected and a little snappy.

Additional info:

Route was inspected on abseil then lead climbed with all protection placed on the lead.

Crag: Crag to the left of White Wall (if facing the rock) Carreg-y-Barcud

Alex and Agne

Length/grade/stars: 13m Diff 1 star

Start location:

Hop over the little stream after the top of White Wall then go out to the headland. Now carefully scramble down a slope and easy rock then go left (facing the sea) to the little crag.

Pitch descriptions:

On the right of the wall is a little groove. Climb this on great rock then trend right over slabby rock to the top.

Additional info:

Route was on sight soloed by me then Henry Castle.

Date of ascent: 16/04/2015
Climbers: Gavin Cytlau

Body Jam

Length/grade/stars: 8m HVS 4c

Start location:

Approach as for Alex and Agne but after the scramble down facing the sea go right instead of left. After about 30 metres you find a widening vertical slot.

Pitch descriptions:

Wedge and body jam your way up the feature, don’t wear your best jacket.

Additional info:

Route was on sight soloed.

Baby Valerio

Length/grade/stars: 9m E1 5b 1 star

Start location:

Approach as for Body Jam but carry on for approximately another 30 to 40 meters, until you reach a steep crag on a platform.

Pitch descriptions:

Starting at the bottom right hand side of the crag. Pull up steeply on jugs and make a rising traverse left, so gaining the prominent diagonal break which is followed to the top left corner of the wall. A great line. It is possible to rock up a little earlier and do the rising traverse holding the top with your feet in the break.

Additional info:

Route was on sight soloed.

Kelvin Childs

Length/grade/stars: 8m HVS 4c

Start location:

Approach as for Baby Valerio.

Pitch descriptions:

At the right side of the crag where Baby Valerio starts is a steep groove. Power up the start to a big ledge. Finish up the top groove.

Additional info:

Route was on sight soloed.

Julia Yoga

Length/grade/stars: 8m HS 4b 1 star

Start location:

Approach as for Baby Valerio.

Pitch descriptions:

At the left hand side of the steep crag is an attractive curving groove. Climb the groove with the crux at the top.

Additional info:

Route was on sight soloed.

Slab

Length/grade/stars: 8m Mod

Start location:

Approach as for Julia Yoga.

Pitch descriptions:

A few metres round to the left of Julia Yoga is a slab. Climb it.

Additional info:

Route was on sight soloed.