Carreg-y-Barcud, Pembroke North

Submitted by: Gavin Cytlau
Crag: Crag to the left of White Wall (if facing the rock) Carreg-y-Barcud
Date of ascent: 18/04/2015

Climbers: Gavin Cytlau, Greg Smith

Political Suicide

Length/grade/stars: 13m HVS 5a 1 star

Start location:

Approach as for Alex and Agne.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the groove to the left of Alex and Agne to the overhanging niche. Pull into and undercut out of the niche rightwards. Finish up stunning featured rock.

Additional info:

Route was inspected on abseil then lead climbed with all protection placed on the lead.

Climbers: Greg Smith, Gavin Cytlau

Greg Evans

Length/grade/stars: 8m Diff

Start location:

Approach as for Baby Valerio but continue along for about 100 metres past another buttress (not at high tide) until you see a distinctive dog leg crack which goes up then right.

Pitch descriptions:

Follow the crack and undercut right around the overhang to finish on the ledge.

Additional info:

Route was lead climbed on sight by Greg Smith and followed by myself. Named in memory of the Cardiff artist who passed away recently.

Climbers: Gavin Cytlau, Greg Smith

Crack

Length/grade/stars: 8m Mod

Start location:

Approach as for Greg Evans.

Pitch descriptions:

To the right of Greg Evans is a flake crack. Makes for a good way back down also.

Additional info:

Route was on sight soloed by myself and Greg Smith.

General Erection

Length/grade/stars: 14m E2 5b 3 stars

Start location:

Approach as for Greg Evans.

Pitch descriptions:

Over to the left and down of Greg Evans is a steep groove which is red at the start. Climb the groove with great gear, moving left a little then back right with a powerful move to haul up the overlap onto the white slab. Follow the crack in the slab to the leaning wall above. Place microwires then move up to the little bulge and over this to exit onto the ledge. Brilliant rock and moves but the leaning finishing wall is escapable.

Additional info:

Route was lead climbed on sight with all protection placed on the lead.

Climbers: Greg Smith, Gavin Cytlau

Gary Lewis Callback

Length/grade/stars: 30m HVS 4b

Start location:

Approach as for Greg Evans.

Pitch descriptions:

About 10 metres to the right of Greg Evans is a blocky chimney and groove. Climb this past a wedged block to exit rightwards onto a ledge.

Additional info:

Route was lead climbed on sight by Greg Smith and followed by myself. There is no belay so Greg had the rope over a large flake at the top which sits above the route.