Morocco Rock – CC meet 2015

Article by Alex Twist
Photos by Chris Densham, Stephen Grey and Alex Twist.

The Kasbah Tizourgane becomes an adopted CC hut in March each year

Fuelled with a powerful mix of hunger and need for some blue skied hot rock, Steve made short work of the 2 hour drive from Agadir to the Kasbah – a drive which provides an invaluable refresher in hazard perception, and a useful introduction to the art of donkey dodging in the Moroccan anti-atlas. The best place to stay is the Kasbah Tizourgane – an old fortified town, renovated to become one of the best guest houses around. Here you will live like a king, hosted by Jamal and Malika.

Rain is an uncommon ‘luxury’ in the anti-atlas in March but for the first couple of days of our trip, our desire to climb burnt stronger than the sun, which had frustratingly chosen to hide behind a curtain of cloud and drizzle. During this unusually poor weather, we stuck to smaller routes on quick drying crags such as Ksar Rock and Joe Brown crag which gave us an ideal opportunity to cut our teeth on this incredible rock.

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Before long, the clouds cleared and the quartzite rock glowed a warm orange, luring us onto bigger routes on bigger walls. Greek Butress and the Thumb -300m crags which tower proudly over the flower filled valleys provide a lifetime of 3* routes such as Sungold and Eros, to name two great E2s. Dinner time conversation became increasingly more enthusiastic throughout the week, filled with tales of unforgettable routes, filled with plans of more to come.

Tagine time at the Kasbah! (Photo Alex Twist)

Even with a few days of overcast and windy weather, there is plenty to go at in Morocco, across all grades. The rock has an abundance of friction and is very well featured with consistently good protection. It is a remote place to climb, however, and whilst this is one of its biggest attractions, it is important to remember where you are when making decisions. Paul and Emma are THE go to people for this wonderful area (don’t forget to buy their guide), and when questioned agreed to run another trip for next year…I’d highly recommend getting signed up. A great meet, and my first of many.

Alex Twist.