Canadian Rockies Ice Climbing Meet

Canmore, Alberta – February 2018

John Jones (AC), Matt Allatt, Simon the Climber, David Medcalf, Steve Lyon (FRCC; LMC), Richard Toon, Nancy Savickas (AAC), Terry Kenny (SMC; Wayfarers), Nigel Hooker, Steve Scott

The first teams arrived at Calgary on Saturday 3rd February to heavy snow. We picked up the car, a big GMC. Winter tyres aren’t compulsory in Alberta and, no surprise, our truck came with M&S mud and snow tyres, or as Nick Bullock has it – ‘Mainly Shit’; only good for shopping trips! This made for immediately interesting driving on the snowbound highway west. David and Steve opted for a $25 per day winter tyre upgrade and, with several vehicles in the ditch due to the blizzard and ice conditions along the Trans-Canada Highway, perhaps this was a good call. Thankfully we all met safely at our base for the next two weeks in Canmore.

Terry’s condo is a warm, commodious and comfortable base and we were greeted with cold beer and a roaring log fire in the woodburner. A welcome burger and beer in the Drake was a mellow ending to a long day.

At breakfast the following morning, mulling over the realities of trans-Atlantic journeys, -20c temperatures and 125km approach drives, plans were hatched for a low-key introduction to Canadian ice. In the biting cold teams dispersed slowly. With Terry and others, Nige and I headed to Grotto Falls (WI3), and nearby Hers (WI4). On the drive back we saw a lone grey wolf trotting across a frozen lake south of Highway 1A. Terry said “coyote”, we saw one of those real close-up the following day; it was defintely a wolf. Fresh from his training camp in Cogne, Jones the ice returned with a massive grin from Johnston Creek (WI 2-5), exclaiming that “it was the best first days climbing I’ve had on any trip, ever, amazing!!”

Before we arrived in Canada the snowpack was deep and unconsolidated and on-and-off it continued snowing during the meet, with a big storm dumping 30 to 50cm on the first Wednesday. Many lines are below large bowls fed by wind blown snow, in the consistently cold temperatures there had been little opportunity for consolidation and with the avalanche risk everywhere very high, unsurprisingly all of the climbers in the Rockies seemed to be converging on the same, av safe, routes. This resulted in some long drives, as hot-spots near Field and Golden on Highway 1, such as the famous Beer Wall routes, were no go areas. Terry warned of the perils of road closures. He recalled having been marooned for three days near Jasper, as avalanches had swept debris and trees across the highway and this hazard was confirmed when Nige and I made the long cold drive to Weeping Wall, passing the debris that had closed the Icefields Parkway (93) for the previous two days! When we geared up it was -32c. It’s a ten minute walk to the base and, undecided, we dithered about not sure of the state of the ice, how our hands would stand the cold and generally faffing around. Then the sun came round…

Daily weather updates promised no change and early, then even earlier, starts became the norm; if you wanted to ensure you weren’t waiting to get on a route, or worse having to make a long drive elsewhere, you had to get there early. Nige and I managed to find the superb Moonlight free on our third attempt; Si, Matt and John had to make a fourth trip!

Despite the competition for lines, the route tally grew impressively each day – King Creek routes; Chantilly (WI3); Louise Falls (WI4-5); Moonlight (WI4-5); a fat Snivelling Gully (WI3); legendary Weeping Wall LH (4) and RH (5); Two O’Clock Falls (2); distant Melt Out (3) overlooking the Columbia icefield near Jasper; End of the Line (4); Lovely Parting Gifts (4); each one presenting its own challenges axecitement and satisfaction. Time out was taken downhill or cross country skiing, at the bagel café with wi-fi and a free carry out if you timed it right, or at the impressive local swimming pool. Terry even had a spiky tyred fat bike and dedicated tracks are available a mere ten minute ride away.

At Evan Thomas Creek (Chantilly; Moonlight; Slurpee etc.) we were warned about the real danger from cougar attacks, only to find that the hazard of being hit by a big cat is even higher taking the trash out the back door at Terry’s place.

On Saturday, the half-way weekend, Terry arranged for friends from Calgary, John and Alvin, with 2 well-equipped Jeeps, to take us into the Ghost River – a wilderness area only accessible to serious all terrain 4X4s capable of handling the deep rutted snow and river crossings. Two vehicles go in to assist each other if, or rather when, one gets stuck. The exciting 90 minute drive revealed more stupendous scenery and improbable routes, including The Real Big Drip (WI6/M9), an audacious and indecently tempting hanging ice-field – see …

We split into two climbing teams in the, more difficult to access, North Ghost. JJ with Matt set about taming The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (GBU) (WI4-5), a full minutes stroll from the car, while the rest of us made a sociable mass ascent of the long and beautiful This House of Sky (THOS) (WI3), a succession of pleasant ice walls winding their way for over 300m up an enclosed canyon. The long day ended convivially with steaks in the pub in the western style town of Cochrane…

Nancy, from Boston, and Richard arrived for our second week bringing us up to a full compliment. Rest days saw us in the Canmore Junkyards, Grotto Canyon or Bear Spirit near Banff. For one team at any rate, the highlights of the trip are likely to have been the epic 19 hour day, in very poor conditions, on The Professor Falls (WI4) and later on the aptly named Whiteman Falls (WI5-6), or should that be Welshman Falls!

Too quickly time passed; a legendary Rancher’s breakfast at Craig’s Diner, the majestic scenery, fun company, the Ghost, Moonlight in very fat condition, the enormous world famous Weeping Wall and the enchanting End of the Line were my most memorable experiences; once you are in tune though, it’s all superb, world class, enjoyable, solid state ice climbing – just make sure you get a good stick!

Our thanks and all credit to Peter Sterling for making this Meet happen and our gratitude to Terry Kenny for his super hospitality.

Steve Scott