Slovakia Tatras Meet March 2020

Tom Priestley on top of the ridge line – Photo by Mark Grist

In the days pre lock down 3 keen CC members: Mark Grist, Ian Bryant and Tom Priestley joined 5 others in the Alpine Club on the joint meet to the Slovakian Tatras. It was relatively difficult to get information/resources on possible routes and what to expect and tales of semi frozen overhanging grass and need for a full rack of warthogs and pegs did nothing to settle the nerves as the majority of the group assembled at Luton airport. The flight was delayed by over 6 hours which gave us an opportunity to meet and discuss plans. When we eventually arrived we were faced with a 3 hour walk up a valley to the Chata pri Zelenom Plese hut which was well equipped and would be the base of our adventures.

We bought a winter climbing guide and a map and largely ignoring the contents Mark Grist and Tom Priestley headed to the only climb in the valley which had anyone on it. It was certainly the most striking line. Think Point 5 but going on for 5 times as long and definitely steeper. The route called Weberovka got grade 6 in the guide and we had been told we should add a grade to give it the correct Scottish comparison. We were also told you could abseil the line so we figured we would climb as far as our skills and nerve would allow then retreat. Four long epic pitches later we retreated concluding it would certainly warrant a grade 6 or 7 in Scotland. Whilst we had done the crux on paper we were under no illusion of the skills required to complete the route as it appeared to go on and on. The whole thing would certainly be a 7 or more. A few dates later Ian Bryant made a superb ascent getting a pitch further before retreating and leading the whole way.

Attention then turned to the ridge lines and a couple of parties did a long ridge we all felt harder  in scope and difficulty to Tower Ridge on Ben Nevis. Mark Grist and Tom Priestley also did another ridge in very windy conditions which was even longer than the first.

Mark Grist and Tom Priestley did one other climb called Lavy Y given grade 5. It certainly packed a punch on the crux which was a very dry wall which called for delicate dry tooling technique on a steep slab.

All in all most parties climbed 4 days and all had a rest day in the middle due to poor weather. The weather for three of the climbing days was excellent. One of which was very windy but bearable. Then Coronavirus struck.

It was a shock to wake up Thursday morning and be told the airports in Slovakia were shut and the border with the Czech Republic was shut to UK nationals. Immediate evasive action was taken. All managed to get to Poland that same day and get back to the UK that evening.

The trip was cut short and we lost 3 climbing days but it was still a successful trip and well worth it for what we achieved. Most people climbed or ski toured 4 full days and all had a lot of fun. Ice/snow conditions were not optimum but it made for exciting and highly focused climbing. A venue to go back to for sure.

Mark Grist

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