Woodcroft Quarry, Basement Lift, Lower Wye Valley

Submitted by: Gavin Cytlau
Crag: Wintours Leap, Woodcroft Quarry, Basement Lift
Date of ascent: 30/03/2015
Climbers: Gavin Cytlau, Adam Haward

Groundhog Dave

Length/grade/stars: 11m HVS 4c

Start location:

Start a couple of metres to the right of Let That Be a Lesson at the foot of the obvious groove.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the groove to the little overhang, peg. Move slightly left going over this, now continue up the bold rib above and move left at the top to the two bolt abseil station of Let That Be a Lesson. Quite good but escapable.

Additional info:

Route was cleaned on abseil then lead climbed with all protection placed on the lead apart from the peg.

 

The Man From Uncle

Length/grade/stars: 11m E2 5b 1 star

Start location:

Start a couple of metres to the right of Groundhog Dave under the steep,slim, slightly yellowish groove which sports two pegs.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb up some scrappy ground to better rock and some gear under the groove. Undercut up into the groove, peg, now make some powerful moves past a second peg to an easing. Finish over the little roof.

Additional info:

Route was cleaned on abseil then lead climbed with all protection placed on the lead apart from the pegs. Adam Haward lead climbed the route after me.

Ferris Bueller’s Dave Off

Length/grade/stars: 11m E2 5b

Start location:

Start a few metres to the right of The Man From Uncle at the foot of a black wall with a little overlap.

Pitch descriptions:

This is a serious undertaking. Climb scrappy ground to the little overlap. Arrange poor (pretty much useless) wires on the right. Undercut over the overlap onto the wall proper. Make a tricky move slightly left then back right to a good hold. Finish with care up the final brittle section.

Additional info:

Route was cleaned on abseil then lead climbed with pre placed wires.

Date of ascent: 31/03/2015
Climbers: Gavin Cytlau, Leigh Howard

 

Dog Dave Afternoon

Length/grade/stars: 15m E3 5c

Start location:

Start a few metres to the left of Ankanara under the overhanging groove.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb up onto a scrappy ledge and clip a poor peg. Move up boldly on small holds to a finger rail and clip another poor peg. Now move up to a big hold and a better peg. Haul over then follow easy slabby rock to the final bulge which is carefully passed on the right. The tree and bolt belay at the start of Back on the Game awaits.

Additional info:

Route was cleaned on abseil then lead climbed with all protection placed on the lead apart from the pegs.

Date of ascent: 01/04/2015
Climbers: Gavin Cytlau

Squarepusher

Length/grade/stars: 16m HVA 5a 1 star

Start location:

Start about 10 metres to the right of Still Nice and Still Sleazy, under a hanging groove. There is a large rusty metal cable hanging to the right of the groove.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb scrappy rock behind the tree to a small cracked wall. Go up this then move right under the little roof to a hold under the groove. Make a crux move to a good hold in the bottom of the groove (watch your head on the end of the cable). Next move left onto the black slab and go up this to a step right. Now follow the final groove to exit with care onto the rubble covered ledge. Tree belay. After the start the rock improves a lot and there are plenty of natural gear placements almost the whole way up.

Additional info:

Route was cleaned on abseil then soloed.

Date of ascent: 07/04/2015
Climbers: Gavin Cytlau, Adam Haward

Tallulah

Length/grade/stars: 15m E3 5c

Start location:

Start about 10 metres to the left of Out of Your Tree under a black wall with a small overhang.

Pitch descriptions:

Start up easy ledges and go up to a good vertical crack on the right and gear. Traverse left to an arete and lay off this to get a peg. Now make a couple of moves to a hold on the lip of the small overhang. Clip two poor pegs above then make a long crux move up right. Haul over then continue carefully on much easier but dirtier ground to the rubble ledge and tree belays.

Additional info:

Route was cleaned on abseil then lead climbed with all protection placed on the lead apart from the pegs.