Ty’n Towyn Quarries, Lleyn

Submitted by: Tim Neill
Crag: Ty’n Towyn Quarries

Holey Guacamole

Date of ascent: 28/11/16
Length/grade/stars: 40m E2 5c 1*
Climbers: Tim Neill, Donald King

Start location:

Mid way between Ferrous and Any Old Iron, quarry 4

Pitch descriptions:

1. 5b 25m Locate an obvious thread/bore hole in the roof just left of Ferrous. Climb to this and pull over on good holds. Follow Ferrous for a few metres until below some more obvious holes. Thread these and pull through the bulging rock to another roof…and another perfect thread that protects the final roof to gain a slab. Climb easily to gain a peg belay on the girdle approx 10m right of the metal spike on Any Old etc
2. 5c 15m Pull through roof above the stance awkwardly to gain the bay and finish of Any Old Iron…passing a hidden metal rod runner on the grassy ledge.

Additional info:

On sight