Tunhill Rocks, Dartmoor

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Tunhill Rocks (p 75)
Date of ascent: 13/04/2017
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Beyoncé Castle

Length/grade/stars: 12m VD

Start location:

Start on the right-hand side of The Knobbly Roof (p78).

Pitch descriptions:

Gain the lip of the high roof by a stride from the right and follow the knobs leftwards. Make a bold move around the rib and follow the breaks leftwards to a step-off. A bouncy castle needed, rather than a mat!

Streak

Length/grade/stars: 8m S

Start location:

Fifteen metres below and left of The Eden Project (problem 27), and just above the stone wall is a taller slab with a shallow overlap on its right and a reasonably clean white streak on its left. Start below the streak, behind a gorse bush.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Gain and climb the white streak; delicate and unprotected!

Additional info:

For problem 1; the action photo of the lady climber is actually on the opposite side of the boulder to problems 1,2 and 3 (see photo-topo below, p 75)! The final problem no. 34 is a mystery. I suspect it’s the big crack on the left mentioned in problem 32, and does contain a chockstone (wobbly)!