Sunny Wall, Woodcroft Quarry, Wintours Leap, Lower Wye Valley

Submitted by: Gavin Cytlau
Crag: Sunny Wall, Woodcroft Quarry, Wintours Leap

Breaking Bad

Date of ascent: 13/12/2014
Length/grade/stars: 46m E3 5c
Climbers: Gavin Cytlau, Adam Haward

Start location:

Start a couple of metres to the left of Daydream on a slope by the path. The climb takes the bulging crystalline cracked feature which hangs above the path and under Nightmare of Brown Sugar.

Pitch descriptions:

Take the first bulge with care and then get gear in the overhanging crystal cracks. Climb these until an escape left can be made onto a cramped ledge with a bush. Move up to a poor peg then up again to a cave with a thread on the right. Now traverse right across vegetated ground until the middle of Nightmare of Brown Sugars starting cable can be reached. Now continue up Nightmare of Brown Sugar and take a hanging belay. Abseil off.

Additional info:

Route was cleaned on abseil then lead climbed with all protection placed on the lead apart from the peg. Care must be taken with rope drag. Take lots of slings and quickdraws.