St Loy, West Cornwall

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: South Coast St Loy (p 185)
Date of ascent: 11/05/2016
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Upper Crust

Length/grade/stars: 20m HS

Start location:

Start 12 metres LEFT of Fluffing Up The Midge (CC Website), below a right-slanting slabby pillar (the left-hand of two!).

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the slabby pillar, at first rightwards, then keeping left to finish up crunchy rock. Block belay on terrace to the right.

Woon Gumpus

Length/grade/stars: 20m VD

Start location:

Start 7 metres right of Fluffing Up The Midge at left-trending twin cracks.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the right-hand crack, continue up the black vein on the right, to an obvious finish up a short corner.

Anderley

Length/grade/stars: 24m S

Start location:

Start 2 metres below and right of Woon Gumpus at a blunt boulder.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the slab up rightwards and step right into a niche with a triangular roof. Pass the roof on its right side, move up and continue diagonally up the right-trending cracks to the top.

Additional info:

Fluffing Up The Midge repeated, grade confirmed!