Morwenna Slabs, North Devon & Cornwall

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Morwenna Slabs(p 143)
Date of ascent: 01/01/2018
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Neue Jahres Tag Konzert

Length/grade/stars: 14m D

Start location:

Forty metres left (north) of the remains of Morwenna Slabs and to seaward are a series of three north-facing slabs, running south to north (suggested name for this area, Triple Slabs?). The slab furthest north consists of easy-angled lower slabs leading to a steeper upper section. Start towards the left side of the slab below a small roof at the top of the slab.

Pitch descriptions:

Amble up the slabs and pass the roof to its right.

Wiener Philharmoniker

Length/grade/stars: 15m S

Start location:

Start 3 metres right of Neue Jahres Tag Konzert.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the steeper slabs and from the left-slanting crack in the headwall, step right and make thin moves to the top.

Waltzer

Length/grade/stars: 11m S

Start location:

Fifteen metres left (facing out), the middle slab has a shallow cave just left of centre, start here.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb just left of the cave, step right above it, and finish direct up the thin cracks.

Triple Time

Length/grade/stars: 17m S

Start location:

Ten metres left (facing out) is the south slab, the one nearest Morwenna Slabs. Its main feature is a left-to-right diagonal line. Start below the left end of this feature.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Step up to a thin crack and make a brisk rightwards traverse to reach a ramp. Follow this and continue rightwards to the edge of the slab. Make a tricky step down onto the back wall and belays.

Oom Pah Pah

Length/grade/stars: 14m S

Start location:

Start 6 metres right of Triple Time at smooth cracks (mid-tide and below!).

Pitch descriptions:

4a Step across the rock pool and climb the smooth cracks to the ramp. Finish up the headwall.

Molar

Length/grade/stars: 13m VD

Start location:

Start immediately left of Celadon

Pitch descriptions:

Climb leftwards up the flakes to the ledge. Make an awkward pull up into a groove above and slightly left, follow this on large holds.

Vampry Lovers

Length/grade/stars: 16m VD

Start location:

Start a metre right of Xanthus at the next break.

Pitch descriptions:

Take the break and the steepening groove above to below the jutting yellow block. Move right and follow, with care, the short, shattered groove just right of the yellow block to the top.