King’s Tor, Dartmoor

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: King’s Tor (p 270)
Date of ascent: 01/06/2017
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Sospan Bach

Length/grade/stars: 8m VS

Start location:

Start 4 metres right of Stonechat Wall at a small projecting ledge.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Make a tricky step up onto the ledge and follow the rounded breaks above directly.

King’s Row

Length/grade/stars: 7m VD

Start location:

Forty metres right of Stonechat Rib is a small slabby wall facing the radio mast. It sports a rounded rib on the left and two cracks on its right. Start below the rounded rib.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the rib, mainly on its left side. To the right, the left-hand crack is Applejack (6m VD Clarke 1.6.17). Whilst the right-hand crack is slightly trickier, Applejill (7m VD Clarke 1.6.17).

Prowd Pancakes

Length/grade/stars: 8m S

Start location:

Thirty metres away from King’s Row in the direction of the radio mast is a rounded buttress, capped by two flattish, elongated blocks. Start below the prow at the left side of the buttress.

Pitch descriptions:

4a By-pass the prow on the left and stride rightwards onto it. Traverse right for 2 metres, then move up and leftwards to finish via the obvious horn.

Additional info:

When approaching this Tor from the Four Winds car park, keep to the right, heading for the corner of a stone wall. This provides the only crossing place for the small but deep stream; and also avoids the grimp and mire 100 metres to the left!