Irish Man’s Wall Crags, Dartmoor

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Irish Man’s Wall Crags (p 224)
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)
Date of ascent: 27/07/2017

Double or Quits

Length/grade/stars: 8m S

Start location:

Start 3 metres right of Caffrey’s at a short wall.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the wall to the large ledge and finish up the prow on the right.

Booze Cruise

Length/grade/stars: 7m S

Start location:

Start as for Murphy’s.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Starting with hands on the jug, move right and pull through the low roof to gain more stuck-ons, which lead to an awkward finish.

Shillelagh

Length/grade/stars: 7m S

Start location:

One hundred and twenty metres South-west of the main crags is a small broken tor (visible on photo, p 225!). Its South-east face however is interesting and is a sheltered haven in strong westerlies! Roughly in the centre of the face is a V-recess with an attractive rib to its left; start here.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Step up left onto the rib and follow it with pleasure. The right-slanting grassy groove in the right wall of the recess proves surprisingly stylish; Groovy (6m D Clarke 27.7.17).

Date of ascent: 01/08/2017

Fingertipster

Length/grade/stars: 6m S

Start location:

Start as for Shillelagh.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the fine eliminate wall immediately right of Shillelagh. Right again the right-bounding rib of the V-recess, climbed directly proves interesting; Begorrah (6m S 4b Clarke 1.8.17).

Blarney

Length/grade/stars: 7m D

Start location:

Eight metres right of Shillelagh, the highest rocks of the face comprise a rounded prow which still awaits a direct ascent. A further 3 metres right is an easy-angled rib; start here.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the pleasant rib.

Tiree

Length/grade/stars: 6m D

Start location:

Twelve metres LEFT of Shillelagh the face ends at an attractive slab just left of a tree.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the nice slab, finishing up its right edge.