Carn Gowla, St Agnes Head, North Devon & Cornwall

Submitted by: Barry Clarke
Crag: Carn Gowla St Agnes Head (p 279)
Date of ascent: 8/12/2016
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Thwacked Rib

Length/grade/stars: 30m S

Start location:

Ten metres right (facing out) of the abseil point for Song at Twilight etc (CC Website), the terrace ends at a metal spike driven in behind a pink block. An abseil to seaward from the metal spike (back it up!) reaches a sloping terrace at high tide level (not in heavy seas!); start here.

Pitch descriptions:

Move leftwards up the terrace for 4 metres, traverse left and climb a short greasy corner to gain a niche formed by a recent rockfall. Pull steeply out of the niche and continue up the grooves above until stopped by a short impending pink wall. Step right to a ledge, move diagonally rightwards to a block; before a final rightwards traverse reaches easier ground in the vicinity of the metal spike.

Flickering Shadows

Length/grade/stars: 25m VD

Start location:

Approach as for Song at Twilight etc (CC Website) and belay at the foot of the abseil.

Pitch descriptions:

Traverse left at barnacle level for 6 metres to gain a sloping ledge below the steep lower section of the rib forming the right edge of the dark buttress. Climb the left side of the rib, and a short groove on the left which leads to ledges and the top. Exquisite climbing!