Kat Dunbar on Warehouse Warriors-Severe 4a Mewsford Point West Face Photo – Paul Donnithorne
Paul Donnithorne has produced a 2021 Supplement to the Pembroke Guidebooks. It is intended to be used in conjunction with the Definite Guides (2011). There are two versions available in PDF: an online version and a home print A5 booklet version. Both can be downloaded. Simple instructions for the Homeprint version are included below.
The predicted new route boom is occurring and the need for a supplement to the 2011 definitive guides is required. The coastline is constantly changing and many comments are flooding in on existing climbs. Let’s keep updated and exploring! This supplement should be used in conjunction with the five volumes of the definitive guides.
More new route information can be found on The Climbers’ Club website and on Barry Clarke’s personal New Route Page.
Print The Supplement at home on A4 to make an A5 BOOKLET
Download Pembroke Supplement HomePrint.pdf and follow this guidance.
These notes apply for DOUBLE-SIDED PRINTING. Test your printer settings to ensure tops of fronts and backs are aligned. A long-arm stapler will be needed to finish the job – high street printshops may be able to help – or improvise. The finished pages should be folded in half to complete the booklet.
The pdf has 28 pairs of 2 page sets. Using 1-28 page numbering of the pdf, Page 1 backs Page 2, Page 3 backs Page 4 and so on. These numbers are shown here in LARGE BOLD TYPE. Using the 1-53 page numbering of the A5 booklet (the Front and Back Cover and the Inside FRONT Cover are un-numbered), follow the notes.
I’ve waited a while because I don’t lightly criticise voluntary work, but finally decided that I need to say something as there are issues that affect safety.
Firstly I am a bit disappointed that there are so few of the new routes and new crags mentioned in the section on Vol 1. OK, some of them may be rubbish and maybe it’s only me that’s disappointed so I’ll move on to the more important items.…
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There have been rockfalls at popular crags that have occurred since Vol 1 was published but get no mention. Two of the changes were notified some years ago and the third not; well it’s pretty obvious and why bother if nobody takes any notice? Here they are:
Vol 1 P280 Porthclais; the rock bridge joining the Red Wall and Grey Slab areas and shown as the approach route on P281 was demolished by the National Trust for safety reasons in 2014 or thereabouts. The two non-recommended routes right of ‘Inset’ are gone.
Vol 1 P307 Initiation Slabs; the large overhanging block, the top of which forms the ledge to start ‘Cormorant Front’, is now at rest on the beach after having a fall in 2019. Pretty obvious and affects routes 2-4 on P307-8
Vol 1 P315-6, Square Bay; The whole face of Back Wall fell down in stages in 2013-4 or thereabouts. Routes 35-40 are no more. There is still a ‘back wall’ but it’s not the same as the one in the guide so there is a possibility someone could get into trouble here.
There may well be others as the cliffs around here are no more stable than anywhere else. The ones I mention are visible on my regular walks around the area so I can’t help notice, but other areas I’m not so familiar with.
Hi Gerry. Thanks for your comment.
I tried to include pretty much everything I know about. I left out some new route claims, when the route length was 6 metres or so. I may well be wrong but micro routes are not worth recording as routes. A line has to be drawn somewhere. Having said that, if you were to write up in CC house style and email me the full details, I could cut and paste them into The Supplement. I have spent the last 9 years or so chasing up climbers who have casually mentioned they’ve done new routes, but it’s difficult getting information. I do actually receive emails occasionally that are hard to decipher.
I haven’t visited Porthclais or St Non’s Area for many years and haven’t seen the rock falls. No one has reported them to me (until now), hence don’t appear in The Supplement. However, I have now updated it with your rock fall details in your above comment.
Paul has produced an updated version following the above comment. This is now the version downloadable.
Super, thanks. If I spot any more I’ll let you know.
In terms of new routes I had to refresh my memory a bit as I’ve more or less stopped climbing so lost touch a bit. I’ve listed below some areas may be worth reviewing the information on, though I think it best to do an inspection before you put them in any sort of guide. There’s lots more I’ve not mentioned and plenty of scope for more exploration if you know where to look.
Respecting your sensible micro-routes rule, here goes:
There’s an ‘unknown crag’ towards St Davids Head but before you get to Porthmelgan (nice beach to leave the family while you climb). It’s written-up in the CC ‘new routes’ section. Some new stuff at Porthmelgan mentioned there too though I don’t fancy the rock myself.
Pen y Cyfrwy area has quite a few in the ‘Barry Clarke’ pages hyperlinked down at the bottom of the new routes pages (and lots more routes in his pages too, all over Pembs.). He also lists some on the much higher wall east of Sun Slab which would clean up fairly well I think with a bit of use and are accessible all states of the tide. I fish off the rocks here and when I see the cliff I’m always surprised nobody else has tried it out.
There seems to be a new crag with a fair few routes at Carreg Y Barcud. Again, it’s in the new routes pages.
Let me know if you want my help anytime when we’re allowed out again. I’m pretty walking-fit, any distance, it’s just that I’ve rather lost the will to climb and when I do try my feet hurt so much it puts me off again.
best wishes and stay safe
Gerry