New Routes – South Wales

New Routes will be sent to the South Wales Climbing Wiki

Note: New routes have been submitted by climbers, many non CC members. They have not been verified by the CC and descriptions may be misleading or inaccurate. Climbers use the information and climb at their own risk.

Quick links to Crag Areas

Northern Limestone Valleys East
Valleys West Coastal Limestone
Cwar Blaen-Dyffryn Cwar yr Hendre

Routes are listed under each crag area.

Northern Limestone

Gilwern > Gilwern Central > Upper Tier Right

Four star

15m HS 4b ☆
03-Aug-2022, John Evans & Dale Meek

Tyla quarry upper/ the obvious thin crack located between The Tremenal Terrors and Pan Narrans. Start by Mantle over ledges to gain the thin crack. Continue to follow the thin crack using lay-aways and large crimps to the top. A dirty exit mantle awaits. Sling the boulders on the grassy slope for belay. Alternatively and preferably due to the chossy nature of the exit mantle: Prepare the belay prior to starting the route, thus giving yourself an anchor point to protect the exit.

Valleys East
Valleys West

Valleys West

Rocky Road

01-Jan-1970,
The short wall right of the rift

Coastal Limestone

Coastal Limestone

Dogs Blocks

9.69m F5+ ☆
12-Jan-2021, Tess Tickle
The blocky groove.

Cwar Blaen-Dyffryn

Cwar Blaen-Dyffryn > Entrance (Virus Wall)

COVID-19

8m D
21-Mar-2020, N.Barry, T.Rodford (both solo), H.Barry
The shallow right facing corner, just right of the twin cracks

Cwar Blaen-Dyffryn > Entrance (Virus Wall)

Social Distancing

8m M
21-Mar-2020, T.Rodford, N.Barry (both solo)
The left arête of the quarry.

Cwar Blaen-Dyffryn > Entrance (Virus Wall)

Lock Down

8m D
21-Mar-2020, T.Rodford, N.Barry (both solo), H.Barry
The slabby wall between the arête and the twin cracks (which still need a lot of cleaning)

Cwar Blaen-Dyffryn > Entrance (Virus Wall)

SARS

8m D
21-Mar-2020, N.Barry, T.Rodford (both solo)
The left facing corner at the tight end of the slabby wall.

Cwar yr Hendre

Cwar yr Hendre > Grizzly Wall

Pooh

4m f4
21-Mar-2020, N.Barry, T.Rodford
The wider crack about 3m from the left end of the wall, lots of scope for harder bouldering.

Valleys West > Craig Cwm

Gwyn’s Road

01-Jan-1970,

The slab right of the central crack at Craig Cwm

Valleys West > Craig Cwm

Workers Crack

12m E2 5c ☆☆
12-May-2021, Roy Thomas Goi Ashmore

The right hand crack on the Waspy wall.