Gogarth Meet Report 2023

The weather forecast for Anglesey in the days before 12-14th May was not inspiring but as the week progressed it kept improving, by the time the weekend came our optimism was rewarded with a near perfect days forecast for the Friday and Saturday.
It seems inexplicable but in nearly 20 years of climbing I’d never climbed at Gogarth. After flurries of interest, cancellations and unexplained no shows, in the end, 12 CC members joined me for my first foray to the fabled delights of these revered cliffs. An advanced party consisting of Paul Scott and myself established base camp at The Valley of the Rocks Campsite on Wednesday afternoon before heading off to grab quick few routes on Holyhead Mountain. Thursday dawned with the expected mizzle and murk but by noon the sun was out, and we headed to Castsel Helen. We climbed some superb routes in glorious afternoon sunshine.
The Valley of the Rocks Campsite is basic but well run, and is nicely spread out with pleasant grassy plots laid out randomly in clearings amongst the gorse. However, the best part is there a decent bar and restaurant on site, the Paddler’s Return which serves good basic food and excellent beer; with our numbers now swelled to three by Mark C, that was Thursday night sorted.
By Friday we had been joined by Martin and the day dawned with clear skies and blazing sunshine. Paul and I headed to Wen Zawn, whilst Mark and Martin who went to main cliff reported a top draw day. Wen Zawn didn’t disappoint, and Paul and I finished the day with pleasant saunter in the sun across Dream of White Horses.
The remaining meet attendees arrived throughout Friday evening, with one intrepid pair arriving well after midnight after an epic drive from London. After a bit of mix and matching, everyone was suitably paired up. With low tide around 1 pm and weather conditions even better than Friday; CC teams headed in all directions to Wen Zawn, Main Cliff, Holyhead Mountain and Castel Helen. All parties returned with huge smiles, tales of brilliant routes, perfect weather and much fun had by all.
The barbeque was lit by 7 pm and as the sun set everyone was suitably fed and watered. By now I was already being asked if this would be a regular spring meet; so, I can assume that everything had been met with approval, with perhaps the exception of Sunday’s forecast.
Sunday dawned grey and damp, and some folks quit whilst ahead and headed home. Remaining teams scattered to Tremadog, Rhoscolyn and the A55 sport crags to eke out bit more climbing before the afternoon rain came. I think the A55 got the best deal weatherwise, most other retreated after one or two climbs.
Will this become an annual meet? Possibly; the campsite is very pleasant, reasonably priced and so is the pub. It would give me an excuse to go back regularly, although I don’t really need one as the climbing is so good, even if the travel from Newcastle is significant for a short trip. We’ll see…..

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