New Routes – West Cornwall – South – Vol 2

Route Name: Ukelele
Length/grade/stars: 8m HVS 5b
Pitch descriptions:
Gain a ledge via jammed boulder on the left: then climb the fingers wall to an awkward move onto a sloping ledge. Finish easily up a short groove or the pillar just right.

Route Name: Bouzouki
Length/grade/stars: 8m VS 4c
Pitch descriptions:
Climb a short wall to a ledge; then climb the prominent, vertical, central crack.

Route Name: Banjo
Length/grade/stars: 7m S 4a
Pitch descriptions:
Gain and climb the wide, slanting crack on the right. Exit leftwards. Good spike belays some distance back.

Start location:
On an area of short walls I’ve been calling Lower North Walls. Use the normal descent to the main climbing areas via a grassy gully. To the north (left, facing out) and down near the sea is a short but prominent arete: this is Cello. The other 5 climbs are hidden around to the right, facing the sea.

Route Name: Cello
Length/grade/stars: 7m D
Pitch descriptions:
Climb the arete on its left hand side to the top, with good holds and protection. Use of the groove just left is optional.

Route Name: Zither
Length/grade/stars: 7m HVS 5b
Pitch descriptions:
Right of the arete of Cello are a steep wall and corner, the top of which are unstable. However, the slim right wall of the corner contains this more solid route: mount the low block and climb the wall, staying out of the corner.

Route Name: Asap
Length/grade/stars: 7m VS 5b
Pitch descriptions:
Right of Zither is a set of 4 small problems above a near-perfect grassy landing. Asap is the leftmost of these: start just right of a blunt arete and climb direct via a small, low undercut.

Route Name: Imho
Length/grade/stars: 7m VS 5a
Pitch descriptions:
Two metres right of Asap is a chunky overlap at 2m; climb the wall directly past this.

Route Name: Moggin
Length/grade/stars: 7m S 4b
Pitch descriptions:
Gain and climb the vertical hand crack at the right end of the face.

Route Name: Meg
Length/grade/stars: 12m HS 4b
Pitch descriptions:
Contrived and escapable, but quite fun. Start on the right side of the right arete and climb to the slanting crack; then climb the crack more easily to a sloping terrace. Move up and climb the rocks above to their highest point.

Start location:
On a sea level outcrop I’ve been calling Tidal Rock. From Cello (Lower North Walls) scramble down to seaward, bearing right (facing out) to locate a 9 metre, south facing wall. The wall rises from a tidal, rock and pebble-filled gully, and sports a large roof at 3-4 metres.

Additional info:
The following short climbs are surprisingly worthwhile. Lowish tide and dry conditions needed.

Route Name: Prince Igor
Length/grade/stars: 9m D
Pitch descriptions:
Start under the roof and climb the slabby edge of the huge block on the left; then transfer to the face and climb to the top on plentiful holds and protection.

Route Name: The Stone Guest
Length/grade/stars: 9m HS 4b
Pitch descriptions:
Start under the right side of the roof. Climb the short, slabby wall on the right to reach the roof. Place gear; then make awkward moves right onto a sloping ledge. Step airily up left onto the upper wall and climb diagonally leftwards to a niche. Finish over a small bulge.

Route Name: The Queen of Spades
Length/grade/stars: 9m HS 4b
Pitch descriptions:
Follow The Stone Guest to the sloping ledge; then climb directly to the top via overlaps and a narrowing, recessed slab.

Route Name: Mavra
Length/grade/stars: 9m HS 4b
Pitch descriptions:
Nicely varied. Start around to the right of the big roof, at a short, reddish wall, undercut at its base. After a tricky start, climb to an easing of the angle and move up to a short, steep crack. Climb the crack; then follow a thinner, left-rising crack in a slab. Finish direct, as for The Queen of Spades.

Additional info:
The name means ” a glimpse of The Divine!

Venting Steam

Length/grade/stars: 12m VD

Start location:

Start 4 metres right of Je Suis Charlie (CC Website!) at the right edge of the square flake.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the flake crack and continue up the steep, broken scoop-line to the top.

Additional info:

Fat Moss repeated…grade confirmed by the left-hand exit. The wiggle through the gap looks impossible save for East European mini gymnasts!!!

Gale Force

Length/grade/stars: 12m S

Start location:

Start 2 metres right of Je Suis Charlie below the centre of the square flake.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the face of the square flake. Pull into and climb the thin crack above.

Climb up and slightly left on good holds for about 10m, until standing on and hanging from two small slightly sloping ledges. Move into the corner below the roofs on Black Sapper. Step left onto the slight arête. Go diagonally left for about 6 metres (feet level with the light-coloured vein) to a break and good cams. Go up and slightly left to the next break. Make a move left and up to a standing position in a light-coloured recess (where a block may have fallen out at some time.) From here, final tricky moves lead to the top.

Variation E4/5 5c/6a
A more committing start. Start in the chasm of Porthmeor Chimney. Bridge out rightwards from the floor of the chasm until a committing pull out on to the wall can be made. A few more run-out moves lead to a short wide crack in the lip of the cave and a hands free knee bar rest and gear. Make a couple of strenuous moves right to a “thank god” foothold, which allows moves up to below a roof and another rest.. Using a good slot, move up through the granite vein to a good break, step right and join the original route at the “break with good cams”.

Additional info:
FA solo after abseil inspection.

This was written up in the Count House log, just as the new (2016) guide was being finalised. Time and space constraints meant it only received a passing mention in the guide, so a full description is given here.

Additional info:
Lovers Groove and Lovers Wall repeated, grades confirmed! Lovers Wall has a fine finish and deserves 1 star! I believe The Amazing Thing takes the right arête of Wee Jammer buttress and so is located left of Polo and Stoc!

Additional info:
Beligerent Butterflys (CC website) repeated, grade confirmed!

Additional info:
The name means black crack in Cornish!

Additional info:
The names mean ‘red slab’ and ‘on the right’ respectively (Cornish).

Additional info:
The Banana repeated, grade confirmed; but this is mentioned as a possible extension to D.Tour!

Additional info:
Toblerone (CC website) repeated, grade confirmed!

Additional info:
The name means ‘scythe’ (Cornish).

Additional info:
The name means bushy-browed (Cornish)!

Additional info:
The name means rainbow, from the mini rainbows formed by the spray in the zawn (Cornish)!

Additional info:
An efficient approach to this area at high tide is by down-climbinng (Mod) or abseiling the gully just right (facing out) of the long slabby pinnacle; but not in rough seas! On the sketch of Porthguarnon East in the main 2000 guidebook the seaward slab containing Neptune etc. is actually located in the same place as the words ‘access to seaward slab’!

Additional info:
The name means beautiful (Cornish)!

Additional info:
The name is Old English for ‘tidying up’!

Additional info:
Named to commemorate the slow cruising of the Penlee Lifeboat in and out of the coves, searching for the poor RSPCA Inspector swept away by storm Imogen!

Additional info:
The name means ‘from beneath’ (Cornish).

Additional info:
Roll of the Dice repeated, thought to be Diff! Twist of the Card + Flip of a Coin (all supplement) repeated, grades confirmed! A nice little wall, could be accessed at high tide (calm seas) by abseiling from the summit of the Island!

Additional info:
The name means pleasure (Cornish!).

Discovery Channel

Length/grade/stars: 14m S

Start location:

One hundred metres left (west) of the descent for Carn Guthensbras a vertical wall rises from a sea channel formed by an island (Carn Guthensbras West?). Gain he ledges at the far western end of the wall by descending easy rocks. Incidentally, the Memorial Crag containing the route Tweelie Anderson (CC Website!) is just 25 metres to the left (facing in). The first routes are reached by an abseil down the front of the buttress seen in profile, when looking back into the channel from the ledges. They start from a comfortable high tide ledge below a recessed wall. The main feature is an attractive narrow buttress above and left, the top half of which provides the profile mentioned above.
Start at the centre of the ledge.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Move up left and follow the narrow buttress, mainly using its left edge.

Magellan

Length/grade/stars: 15m VS

Start location:

Start as for Discovery Channel.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the twin cracks in the steep wall to a small ledge. Continue up the wide groove formed by the wide crack and shallow corner to better holds and the top.

Vespucci

Length/grade/stars: 16m VS

Start location:

Start immediately right of Magellan.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Stride across the crunchy chimney and climb up and rightwards to gain a slab on the rib. Up this, and the left-hand of the cracks in the headwall.

Amerigo Groove

Length/grade/stars: 20m HS

Start location:

Start as for Magellan.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Descend for a metre and traverse right for 3 metres, past a wide crack, to gain an attractive groove. Climb the groove and crack to a ledge; and finish up the wide crack above.

Additional info:

To the right are more impressive walls, but with very little in the way of starting ledges!

Crag: South Coast Carn Guthensbras Main Crag (p 96)

Fortinbras

Length/grade/stars: 18m HS

Start location:

Start 8 metres LEFT of Livinbras on a sloping ledge below two thin cracks in a short steep wall.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Pull through the steep wall and continue up a slab to a good ledge below the upper golden tower. Follow delectable thin cracks just left of the nose of the tower and finish direct.

Silly Buoy

Date of ascent: 23/2/2016
Length/grade/stars: 32m VS
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Approach as for Blockhead.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Follow Blockhead for 2 metres, then make a dainty hand traverse left for 3 metres; before following a series of cracks to a ledge. The tricky short wall above is climbed by use of two thin cracks immediately left of Blockhead (just left of the author on the back of the Supplement, blinkers required!). Above, pull leftwards around the block to easier ground.

Additional info:

The chasm approach is quite serious, and now there are only two chockstones remaining wedged above.

Rolling Bell

Date of ascent: 23/02/2016
Length/grade/stars: 18m S
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start 8 metres right of Tweelie Anderson at a black slab in the left wall of a small zawn.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the black slab, then skirt the large roof by moving right and teetering up crunchy rock for a move; before stepping left above the roof. Continue diagonally leftwards to the rib and finish pleasantly up this.

Bearded Fuzz

Length/grade/stars: 12m S

Start location:

Fifteen metres above and left of Samarkand, the slabbier left flank of the golden buttress contains a bottomless crack, widening towards the top; start here.

Pitch descriptions:

Gain the crack awkwardly and follow it to the top, using a variety of long-forgotten techniques!

Date of ascent: 24/02/2016

Dark Polka

Length/grade/stars: 11m VD

Start location:

The south east ridge of the Point (in the direction of Hella Point) has three pinnacles, each presenting a stern face into Polostoc Zawn. The second, middle pinnacle is easily identified by a huge rockfall scar in its lower section. Scramble down the ridge to reach the col between the second and third pinnacle. The third pinnacle comprises an obvious black slab. Scramble down the break below the col (in the direction of Polostoc Zawn) for a few metres to belay on a small ledge above a steep wall.

Pitch descriptions:

Move right onto a polished ledge at the very top of the rockfall scar and from its right end pull up a steep wall; before climbing a slab to gain the summit of the second pinnacle. A good little adventure when combined with the approach!

Chukkaway

Length/grade/stars: 15m S

Start location:

Approach as for Dark Polka. From a belay in the col between the second and third pinnacles abseil down the break and the steep wall below to a high tide ledge (calm seas!); start here.

Pitch descriptions:

Step right onto the rockfall scar and follow a delicate little ramp up leftwards. Move up the break and finish up the thin crack in the black slab on the left to the top of the third pinnacle.

Additional info:

Pete’s Party Piece repeated, Diff up to the tricky move on the arête, which felt scary and 4b if you are short, like me!

Date of ascent: 25/02/2016

Nympholept

Length/grade/stars: 11m VD

Start location:

Four metres LEFT of Misguided Pixies is a small square buttress, start below its left side.

Pitch descriptions:

Move up left onto a ledge, pull up the steep wall and gain a ledge. Step right and finish up the left edge of the buttress.

Puckoon

Length/grade/stars: 11m S

Start location:

Start 3 metres right of Nympholept below a thin crack immediately left of a wide crack.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the thin crack to a ledge within the cleft. Step left onto the front of the buttress and finish up its right edge.

Flag Planter’s Fantasy

Length/grade/stars: 10m S

Start location:

The block island 35 metres seaward of Winter Flakes can be accessed at low tide and calm seas. Start at the left edge of the seaward face.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Make an exposed step left into a short hanging groove in the arête and gain the large ledge. Climb the knobbly rib, step right along a shelf and gain the summit.
Descent: either by abseil or down-climbing the east face (towards Hella Point) at Mod!

Bernard’s Books

Length/grade/stars: 6m S

Start location:

Start 10 metres below and right of The Pit, at a wrinkled wall above a large ledge.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the left edge of the wrinkled wall to a ledge below a red wall of fresh, crunchy rock. Continue up a left-trending thin crack in the red wall and finish up the edge. The central line up the wrinkled wall and the right-trending line up the red wall give Beam Me Up (17m VD Clarke 25.2.16).

Exclamation Mark

Date of ascent: 06/03/2016
Length/grade/stars: 13m E9 6c ***
Climbers: Alexis Perry

Start location:

At the foot of the Question Mark arête

Pitch descriptions:

Direct start to Question Mark. Climb the arête all the way (as opposed to traversing in to meet it).

Additional info:

Protected by skyhook, which was placed on lead. Inflatable dolphin not used (ask Ken). Although the lower arête isn’t that hard (about V4/5ish) or long, the route is harder than Question Mark as you’re more pumped when you get to the dangerous bit near the top. More satisfying than Question Mark – the lower section has great moves and you get to climb the whole of the arête (which is the point of the exercise).

Arrow Corner

Length/grade/stars: 11m VD

Start location:

The routes are located on the topmost buttress of the bounding ridge on the north side of the zawn and above the normal approach. The buttress is almost level with the end of the ancient stone wall, and a mere 15 metres below the level of the moor. The routes start from an elevated ledge below the buttress, complete with its own arrowhead-shaped block.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the left edge of a short steep wall and continue up the corner above. The broken wall just right leads to an ungainly finish at a wide crack; Broken Arrow (12m S Clarke 4.3.16).

Arrowhead Ridge

Length/grade/stars: 12m S

Start location:

Start 3 metres right of Arrow Corner at a wide crack.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Follow the crack and sharp rib above. the final impending 2 metres were avoided by a wriggle through the cleft just right.

Additional info:

The left-to-right diagonal quartz vein cutting across this buttress is part of pitch 6 of The Long and Winding Road (CC Website; the ridge climb from sea level!).

Date of ascent: 06/03/2016

Marxism

Length/grade/stars: 18m S

Start location:

Start 5 metres below and right of Chico (CC Website!), in a red dyke.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb a short flake rightwards and continue up the steps in the right edge of the wall; before finishing up cracks just left of the upper edge.

Namphara

Length/grade/stars: 12m S

Start location:

Twenty metres below Arrow Corner is a smaller, but steeper buttress with a gashed triangular block forming its summit. This buttress includes pitch 4 of The Long and Winding Road (CC Website!). Start just right of the bulging wall split by smooth cracks.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the crack in the dark rock to a ledge. Gain the top of the triangular block from the rear. The slanting flake crack just right is Zeldaem (12m D Clarke 6.3.16).

Perked Up

Length/grade/stars: 10m VD

Start location:

Start between Pinky and Perky (suppl. p 66!), at a blunt nose.

Pitch descriptions:

Pull past the nose and continue up to finish via a shallow crack.

Prequel

Length/grade/stars: 10m VD

Start location:

Start 7 metres left of Black Breaks the Thorn (CC Website!), at the seaward arête, low tide and calm sea!

Pitch descriptions:

Climb rightwards up the excellent flake crack to the top.

Rondo Burlesque

Date of ascent: 12/03/2016
Length/grade/stars: 24m VS
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start 4 metres right of Zero at an attractive left-slanting flake crack.

Pitch descriptions:

1. 8m Climb the flake crack and belay below the corner on the right.
2. 7m 4b Layback the crack just left of the nose to the right of the corner and follow better holds to a ledge below the chimney of The Greek’s Knees.
3. 9m 4b Climb up to the overlap on the right (as for Placebo Dream, suppl.), then hand traverse rightwards along the wide break. Move up slightly and swing around the rib to a belay in the gully, and scramble out. Three diverse, but interesting pitches linked!

Branchline

Date of ascent: 2/03/2016
Length/grade/stars: 20m S
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start as for Cleavage.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Follow the groove of Cleavage for 6 metres, then take the thin crack branching rightwards, on good holds and protection, to a recess. Step right and use the fangs to gain the top.

Cloaking Device

Length/grade/stars: 11m S

Start location:

Fifteen metres seaward of the buttress containing Blockhead etc, the final pinnacle of the Promontory has a narrow gritty chute on its landward side, with a dark slabby wall rising from it to the summit of the pinnacle. Access is either by reversing the descent from the top of Blockhead or at low tide and calm seas, crossing the chasm and traversing around the north side of the Promontory. Abseil down into the gritty chute and belay 4 metres above the rounded block.

Pitch descriptions:

Step up left onto a ledge, then follow the holds diagonally rightwards up the dark slabby wall to a rounded break. Move right and climb a shallow pocketed runnel to the summit.

Outlandish

Length/grade/stars: 14m S

Start location:

Approach as for Cloaking Device, but abseil a further 4 metres to gain a ledge on the far side of the chute.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the right side of the arête of the pinnacle to a ledge. step right and follow a crack to another ledge; before swarming up the final impending rib to gain the summit.

Cherry Topping

Length/grade/stars: 12m HS

Start location:

Opposite the dark slabby wall the seaward face of the buttress containing Blockhead etc is broken, but does provide one worthwhile climb. Start towards the right side of the face at a shallow right-slanting corner, just left of three small red veins.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the shallow corner, step left and pull up to gain a ledge. Finish up the shallow flakes above.

Wheal Reath

Length/grade/stars: 18m VD

Start location:

Start as for Samphire Wall.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the broken ridge above, which forms the right edge of a square-cut chimney, utilizing the chimney for the final 2 metres.

Rub a Dub Dub

Length/grade/stars: 9m VD

Start location:

Below the start of Samphire Wall and to the right (facing in) of the slimy corner crack are three cracks in a steep wall. Approach by scrambling around the seaward end of the steep wall (mid tide and below, and calm seas!). Start below the left-hand crack.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the left-hand crack to the top.

Haematite

Length/grade/stars: 12m S

Start location:

Near the base of East Gully are a series of red slabs on the left (facing out). Start below a right-angled corner where the grass gives out on the left (facing out) side of the gully.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the corner and finish up the steep ramp leftwards.

Clot Factor

Length/grade/stars: 14m HS

Start location:

Start 1 metre right of Haematite.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Step right into the slab, move up and pull over a slight nose; before continuing upwards to finish up a short corner on the right.

Sanguine

Length/grade/stars: 17/03/2016

Start location:

Approach as for Clot Factor, but continue to scramble down for 10 metres to where the rock changes colour from red to green, about 8 metres above the sea.

Pitch descriptions:

Step right onto a rib and follow it to a ledge at 7 metres. Move left, then follow the slabs slightly rightwards, until vegetation encroaches. Traverse right and finish up a rib.

Blood Sucker

Length/grade/stars: 21m S

Start location:

Start 9 metres above and right of Sanguine below a corner at the left side of a prominent smooth red slab. The slab has been traversed at half-height, but not climbed!

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the corner up rightwards to near the top of the smooth slab. Step up slightly left, then traverse right to finish up a grass-backed corner.

Clamity

Length/grade/stars: 14m HVS

Start location:

Forty metres right of the red slabs containing Sanguine etc, a series of buttresses rise above a channel formed by an island. Access is by the headland just south of the red slabs. Scramble down towards the island and gain a large recess containing huge rock steps and overlooked by a golden tower. To reach sea level, either slither down a chimney on the left (facing out), or abseil to ledges 3 metres above high tide level. To the left (facing out), down-climb a corner for 2 metres (VD) and traverse right (now facing in) for 3 metres (calm seas!) to below a steep corner to the right of a rectangular roof. Finally continue right for 2 metres to belay below another corner, with an impending section at half-height.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Climb the rib on the right of the corner and step right into a slabby groove. Follow the right side of this groove to a ledge and finish up the broken wall above.

Nugget

Length/grade/stars: 14m S

Start location:

Six metres right of Clamity is a recess above high tide ledges, best gained by abseil. Start below the left-hand corner of the recess.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the left-hand corner to a ledge on the left. Move up and step right into the finishing groove. The right-hand corner of the recess is more interesting; Nougat (13m VS 4b Clarke 18.3.16), and is climbed via the ledge on the right.

Silverado

Length/grade/stars: 14m HS

Start location:

Twelve metres right of Nugget a silvery slab rises above a short steep wall (clearly seen from the cliff-top!). Start below a flake crack leading to a slanting block allowing access to the slab.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the flake crack, step left and gain the top of the block by exquisite moves. Finish up the thin cracks in the slab; superb!

No Oil Painting

Length/grade/stars: 26m S

Start location:

Start on a small rounded boulder 6 metres in from the right edge of the South Face, and below the massive boulder which spans the access ridge above.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the red wall up rightwards, continue up a black flake crack to broken ground. Up this to a finish up a slabby corner.

Breugel

Length/grade/stars: 10m S

Start location:

Start 3 metres below and right of the massive boulder spanning the ridge (facing in) at an attractive crack in the grey, seaward wall.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the surprisingly awkward crack and the slab above just left of its edge.

Dalghenn

Date of ascent: 21/03/2016
Length/grade/stars: 15m VS
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start 2 metres left of Only the Lonely (CC Website!) at a hairline crack.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Climb the hairline crack and the shallow groove above to a ramp. Finish leftwards up the red walls.

Additional info:

Only the Lonely (CC Website) repeated; thought to be VS 4b!
Book of Dreams and Alone Again (supplement) are highly likely to be the same route!
Dalghenn means grasp (Cornish)!

Silver Creek

Length/grade/stars: 11m S

Start location:

Start 2 metres right of Silverado at a steep red vein which bounds the silvery slab.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the vein steeply for 5 metres, then scramble to the top.

Silver Smile

Length/grade/stars: 12m VD

Start location:

Start from the good ledge above the steep section of Silver Creek, gained from above.

Pitch descriptions:

Step left onto the slab and follow the holds across it, above the impending wall.

Zagzigga

Length/grade/stars: 18m S

Start location:

Fifteen metres right of the Silverado Slab the cliff turns into Porth Loe Cove, becomes higher and gains a golden hue; access here is by abseil only. The cliff rises from large ledges above most tides, but is affected by rough seas! At the left of this portion of cliff the main features are two diverging black overhanging corners. Start 3 metres right of these corners at a stepped rake rising leftwards.

Pitch descriptions:

Follow the rake for 6 metres then take the diagonal cracks rightwards for a similar distance until the wall above relents. Pull over to easier ground and continue to the top.

Additional info:

In view of the large potential here and the cliff’s increasing independence, a new name may be required; Porth Loe Buttress South?

On-Off Switch

Date of ascent: 24/03/2016
Length/grade/stars: 14m S
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start 15 metres above and right of Immaculate Groove, near the top of the broad ramp.

Pitch descriptions:

Walk left into an alcove with a sloping triangular floor, continue up a steep little corner to a ledge on the left. Move up the next steep corner and gain a niche and bridge up this to the top.

Additional info:

Four Directions, Direct Start repeated, grade confirmed!
The Black Bowl and Side Show repeated, both thought to be VD!

The Binnacle

Length/grade/stars: 16m S

Start location:

Follow the normal descent, until a pinnacle-like buttress divides the gully into two branches, East Gully and South Gully. The seaward edge of this buttress forms a prominent ridge. Start at the base of this ridge adjacent to a smooth red wall.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the steep ridge to gain a ledge on the right at 7 metres. Step left and follow the ridge direct to the top.

Spurrey Fringe

Length/grade/stars: 23m VD

Start location:

Eight metres above the finish of Haematite etc a tower-like buttress rises above a sloping grass terrace. Approach by descending grass slopes to the left (facing out) of the buttress. Belays advised at the foot of the routes. Start towards the left side of the buttress below a long groove with a yellow overhanging wall on its left.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the groove to the final tower which is taken by its left wall. The slanting groove 3 metres right merges with and eventually finishes up the parent route; Stone Crop (22m VD Clarke 4.4.16).

Fuzzy Face

Length/grade/stars: 22m VS

Start location:

Start 4 metres above and right of Spurrey Fringe at a diverging groove with a black back wall leading to a roof.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Bridge the groove for 3 metres then traverse left to the ridge. Follow this on its left side to the final tower. Take this direct via a testing finish up a loose wide crack.

Scatter

Length/grade/stars: 14m D

Start location:

Fifty metres right (facing in) of Saskia the right-hand face of the seaward pinnacle is broken, but towards its left side is an attractive slab flanked by a flake crack to its left and a dark corner to its right. Start at a col below the slab, well above the sea and 2 metres right of a newly-fallen block.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb a shallow corner and follow the flake crack leftwards to the top. Just right, the slab itself is pleasant; Salt Diamonds (12m VD Clarke 11.4.16), keep left of the final bulge.

Ab-Dabs

Length/grade/stars: 15m VS

Start location:

Start as for Scatter.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the dark corner to the right of the slab, step right at the bulge and pull over the final roof with trepidation!

Florestan

Length/grade/stars: 10m S

Start location:

Eighteen metres above and right of Creature Discomforts (supplement) is a sunnier grey wall with a slabby rib on its left and dark straight crack in its centre. Start below the slabby rib (most tides!).

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the slabby rib with a few interesting moves at half-height! To the right, the dark straight crack proves that perseverance pays off; Eusebius (9m S 4a Clarke 11.4.16).

Galavant

Length/grade/stars: 20m HS

Start location:

Start as for Vessacks Original.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Follow Vessacks Original to the constriction in the slab. Just right, two sets of cracks cut through a bulging wall. Climb the right-hand set of cracks to easier ground. Step left and finish up the fine crack in the brown slab.

Knee Spin

Length/grade/stars: 8m S

Start location:

Start 4 metres above and right of Viagra (supplement).

Pitch descriptions:

4a Make an awkward pull into the shallow groove in the nose of the block and continue up on enormous holds.

Droopy Slab

Length/grade/stars: 20m VS

Start location:

Start as for Viagra (supplement, most tides!).

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the dark landward slab, opposite Viagra. As the colour of the rock lightens, the holds improve and lead to easier ground and the top.

Date of ascent: 12/04/2016

Zombie Nation

Length/grade/stars: 16m S

Start location:

Seventy metres right of Creature Discomforts (suppl. p 76), the west face of the Point is graced by two impressive, but broken tower-like buttresses well above the sea. Start 20 metres LEFT of the left-hand buttress at a three-tiered wall.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb a ramp up leftwards, then follow the vein above in two stages.

Kinemortphobia

Length/grade/stars: 19m VD

Start location:

Start 20 metres right of Zombie Nation on a cubic block below the left-hand tower-like buttress.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the broken, but pleasant lower section of the buttress; and finish up the right edge of the upper, steeper section, making best use of the available rock fangs.

Sticky Wicket

Length/grade/stars: 10m HS

Start location:

Eight metres left of Vessacks Original a deep chimney separates a square buttress from the main mass. A further 7 metres around and left gains the short attractive seaward face of the square buttress. Start below thin cracks towards the left side of the seaward face.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the thin cracks to a niche. Traverse right and finish steeply up the edge of the face.

Mouse’s Ear

Length/grade/stars: 14m HS

Start location:

Start 7 metres around and right of Sticky Wicket at the deep chimney.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Boulder out the steep wall immediately left of the chimney to a ledge. Bridge up for two moves and gain a sloping ledge on the right of the chimney. Continue up the slabby corner and finish nicely by the ear above and right.

Dariel

Length/grade/stars: 9m S

Start location:

Start 5 metres below and right of Knee Spin on a wrinkled boulder (lowish tide and calm seas!).

Pitch descriptions:

4a Move up into a slot, follow the handrail leftwards and pull up onto a gangway. Finish up the flake cracks in the rib on the left. Contrived, but excellent climbing!

Additional info:

Dariel is the ancient name for this particular area!

Perks of the Trade

Length/grade/stars: 20m S

Start location:

Start as for Perky (supplement).

Pitch descriptions:

4b Move right for 3 metres and climb a red shallow groove, with a white-splashed left wall. Move right at the small bulge and gain a ledge. Finish up the steep rib above and slightly left.

Gnasherville

Length/grade/stars: 20m VD

Start location:

Start as for Perks of the Trade (all tides, but calm seas!).

Pitch descriptions:

From the foot of the red shallow groove, descend slightly and continue up and rightwards into the back of the zawn to gain a small ledge above the red rock. Move up, then finish up the white vein just right. Mainly straightforward climbing in a dramatic setting! For purists, 12 metres above the finish of Gnasherville, the white vein divides. Follow the right branch which cuts through terraced walls; Cream Cake (10m VD Clarke 17.4.16).

Fortune Cookie

Date of ascent: 18/04/2016
Length/grade/stars: 9m S
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Below the broad sea-stained slab leading down to Marconi Slab is a steep wall above a tidal channel. Its main feature is a rounded scoop above a bulging barnacle wall. Start below and left of the scoop.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb a short slab, then finger traverse rightwards to reach flakes giving access to the scoop; up this to the top. At high tide the traverse can be gained from above!

Dog Eat Dog

Date of ascent: 23/04/16
Length/grade/stars: 15m S
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start as for Penwith Pets Beware (Shady Wall, supplement p79).

Pitch descriptions:

Follow Penwith Pets Beware for 2 metres, the traverse right for 2 metres, before climbing a crack to a ledge. The shallow groove above leads to the finishing terrace. On the east side of this terrace, a wave-smoothed, easy-angled slab slants down to an open zawn fringed by an impending unclimbed wall. The corner to the right divides the slab from the impending wall and gives; Shady Trees (18m D Clarke 23.4.16). Swerving leftwards to finish up the slabby corner.

Painted Ladies

Length/grade/stars: 18m S

Start location:

Facing westwards from the buttress containing Harrison’s Crack etc, and 80 metres away across a cove are two rounded buttresses. The left-hand one has a prominent white groove, whilst the right-hand rounded buttress contains shallow cracks in an impending wall, all unclimbed! The first routes are on the left-hand (facing in) buttress. Access is by its far right (facing out) side, due to there being a low tide channel and steep wall prohibiting direct sea-level access. Walk over the top of the right-hand buttress, descend a short gully (the top section of Aquaphobe!), and continue over the left-hand buttress to discover a straightforward dark groove leading to high tide ledges adjacent to a small beautiful inlet. The fine main face is now to the right (facing in). Its obvious feature is a large pedestal towards its left side. Start below the groove defining the right side of the pedestal.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the groove and continue up to finish up the flake crack just left of the chimney.

Additional info:

The name comes from the tattooed naked ladies ensconced on the nearby nudist beach!!!

Blue Boyou

Length/grade/stars: 17m HS

Start location:

Start 1 metre right of Painted Ladies.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the wall and continue up the shallow groove in the centre of the wall. Finish up the rib above.

Aquaphobe

Length/grade/stars:

Start location:

Start 15 metres right of Blue Bayou on a square ledge in the tidal channel below the damp corner separating the two buttresses. Best gained by scrambling below the right-hand buttress.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Veer rightwards away from the corner and climb the centre of the slab via delicate moves between small holds. Continue up the flakes and finish up a gully.

Elgeth

Length/grade/stars: 8m VD

Start location:

Start on the opposite side (west) of the buttress containing Harrison’s Crack etc; from a good ledge at high tide level in a recess. Gained by abseil or down-climbing (Mod).

Pitch descriptions:

Step up right onto a higher ledge where the buttress changes direction. Make a steep start up the black rib and follow it to the top.

Additional info:

The name means chin in Cornish!

Eseliek

Length/grade/stars: 18m VS

Start location:

Start 3 metres right of Elgeth below a dark grove on the front of the buttress, the right-hand of two.

Pitch descriptions:

5a Climb the groove, and from a standing position on the obvious ledge at 5 metres make a tenuous step right onto a large ledge. Move up right and follow the flakes and runnels on the left to finish.

Additional info:

The name means long-limbed in Cornish!

Fethus

Length/grade/stars: 15m S

Start location:

Start 6 metres right of Eseliek across lower ledges (low tide and calm seas!), at a black bulging crack cutting through the edge of the buttress.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the crack to a ledge and finish up the flake on the right.

Date of ascent: 26/04/2016

Flamingo

Length/grade/stars: 24m S

Start location:

Twenty-five metres right (facing in) of Elgeth and across an 8 metre wide channel seldom clear of water, is a tall columnar cliff. Access is by descending grass slopes to the right (facing out) of the cliff, followed by scrambling down and across ledges leftwards (facing out) to gain a large flat platform at high tide level. To reach the routes climbed so far, either abseil down the short chimney, or down-climb (VD) the seaward edge of the platform (low tide). The main features are a wide boulder-filled cleft in the centre of the cliff, with a golden rib to its left (facing in). Start below and right of this rib.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Surmount a block at the base of the cleft and climb a crack on the left for 3 metres, before following the good holds leftwards to a ledge on the rib. Continue up the rib and finish up the flake cracks to gain the finishing terrace. A walk leftwards (facing in) regains the descent.

Flicka Ridge

Length/grade/stars: 22m S

Start location:

Start 6 metres above and right of Flamingo across the cleft on a good ledge above high tide level.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Descend slightly and foot traverse right for 2 metres to reach a ridge. Climb a shallow groove just left of the ridge to a ledge and continue up cracks and flakes to gain a miniature summit. Scramble out (rope advised!), or abseil back down; or various ledges and grooves can be down-climbed (D).

Burnished

Length/grade/stars: 24m S

Start location:

Start as for Flicka Ridge.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Follow Flicka Ridge to the ridge, step right onto the sidewall of the channel and traverse right for 2 metres to below a niche. Gain the niche and pull out leftwards to follow a fine short flake crack and the crack above to a ledge. Keep right and continue to the miniature summit.

Black Spot

Length/grade/stars: 20m VS

Start location:

Start 2 metres right of Red (supplement, p 79), at a small bulge marked by a circular black patch.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Pull through the bulge and continue up the narrow black vein to better holds at the break. A difficult move up the shallow groove leads to easier ground and the top.

Bargos

Length/grade/stars: 15m S

Start location:

Start 2 metres right of Black Spot at a thin crack in a black wall just left of a break in the cliff which provides a useful down-climb (Mod).

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the widening crack and the straightforward fault to the top.

Additional info:

The name means buzzard in Cornish! Regarding the location of existing routes:-
The term ‘stepped face’ is misleading; these are large ledges leading down seawards below the main face. At the left side of the main face is a short chimney gully formed between these ledges and the main face. It is here, I believe, the route Pig and Chips starts. Red (supplement, p 79) starts 15 metres lower down where the base rocks begin to level out. It is recognizable as an organ pipe in a very smooth wall. Grey (supplement), is actually to its left and converges higher up; and may share ground with All Fools Flake Out!

Date of ascent: 28/04/2016

Shades of Grey

Length/grade/stars: 15m HS

Start location:

Start 3 metres right of Pig and Chips and just right of the short chimney gully at a wide grey sheet, a major feature of the left side of the cliff.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the left edge of the grey sheet, trend right and squeeze past a cube-shaped block. Continue up a red wall to easier ground and the top.

Kiss Curl Rock

Length/grade/stars: 18m HS

Start location:

Start 2 metres right of Shades of Grey.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Stride rightwards off the edge of the ledge onto the only foothold. Pull quickly up the narrow grey vein to better holds, and continue rightwards up the straightforward vein, in a fine position, to finish up short fluted cracks just left of the far neb.

Flying Carpet

Date of ascent: 18/04/2016
Length/grade/stars: 14m HS
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start immediately left of Permanendo.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the face of a triangular section of white rock. Step left onto the dark slab and follow it, keeping between the gritty corners, to finish up the mercifully short crumbly upper corner.

Additional info:

Marconi Slab itself seems largely unaffected by the rockfall.

Left Leg Shuffle

Date of ascent: 30/04/2016
Length/grade/stars: 15m S
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start on a ledge at the top of the groove of Groucho (supplement), to the left of a cleft slanting rightwards.

Pitch descriptions:

Gain the cleft and stride across the top of the open groove of Afternoon Grooves (supplement). Shuffle right, and at the spikes, swing sensationally out; before descending a ramp for 2 metres. Finish up the right wall of the corner above and right.

Camouflage

Length/grade/stars: 15m HVS

Start location:

Start as for Chyflake (CC Website).

Pitch descriptions:

4c Follow the ramp to the big ledge. gain and follow the right-trending black vein across the wall just above Chyflake, utilizing footholds in the chimney where the vein thins. Continue up the vein to a tricky finish.

Breakthrough

Length/grade/stars: 15m VS

Start location:

Start 10 metres below and right of Chyflake (CC Website) at a shallow rounded groove leading to a break in the short impending wall.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Climb the rounded groove and pull up the wall via the break. Gain a corner niche above with difficulty, step left and finish up cracks and slabs.

Classico

Length/grade/stars: 7m HS

Start location:

Start 4 metres right of Ash Arête (CC Website) below two slanting cracks in the right flank of the beaked rib.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the superb left-hand slanting crack, via classy moves.

Lucy in the Sky

Length/grade/stars: 8m S

Start location:

Start as for Leuk Before You Leap (suppl. p 97).

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the edge just right on its left side. At its balding top, step right and finish up a short slabby groove.

With Diamonds

Length/grade/stars: 8m HS

Start location:

Start 1 metre right of Luke No Hands (suppl. p 97), and just left of a thin crack.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Gain the small ledge in the middle of the wall and finish up the tiny flake in the headwall.

Rather Gruesome

Date of ascent: 04/05/2016
Length/grade/stars: 14m S
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Facing out and looking into the gruesome zawn immediately left of the West Buttress, a prominent left-trending crack on the zawn’s right (west) wall, leads to a flake with a small bulge just above. Gain a ledge about 15 metres above the base of the zawn at the foot of this crack, by scrambling down a gully (abseil recommended!).

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the left-trending crack and gain the top of the flake. Step right at the bulge and reach the top via the miniature pinnacles.

Litmus

Date of ascent: 05/05/2016
Length/grade/stars: 11m S
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start as for Alkaline Test.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the wall between Alkaline Test and The Chimney to a ledge on the rib, finish up the rib.

Additional info:

Even Spiders Need Homes is the left-hand chimney gully, not the central one!
The Chimney repeated, thought Diff! The Curving Crack repeated, grade confirmed!

Paper Tiger

Length/grade/stars: 20m VD

Start location:

Start 6 metres below and left of Easy Touch at a rib.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the rounded bulges, the first direct, the second on the right to ledges. Continue up cracks in the rib to a small bulge. Step right and climb a short chimney to shelving rock and the top.

Sheep Amongst Wolves

Length/grade/stars: 21m D

Start location:

Start at the foot of the scramble descent to The Northern Platform Area.

Pitch descriptions:

Move rightwards along greasy ledges for 5 metres, then climb a short corner to a ledge. Follow the black wall on the right and finish up the crack.

Teardrop 1

Length/grade/stars: 6m S

Start location:

Immediately below Peel Crack is a short tier above a rock pool with two cracklines. Start below the left-hand crackline.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the lower cracks and pull over the slight bulge to gain the upper crack. The right-hand upper crack is gained by a traverse from the right above the rock pool and is just as entertaining; Teardrop 2 (7m HS 4c Clarke 6.5.16).

Upper Crust

Length/grade/stars: 20m HS

Start location:

Start 12 metres LEFT of Fluffing Up The Midge (CC Website), below a right-slanting slabby pillar (the left-hand of two!).

Pitch descriptions:

4a Climb the slabby pillar, at first rightwards, then keeping left to finish up crunchy rock. Block belay on terrace to the right.

Woon Gumpus

Length/grade/stars: 20m VD

Start location:

Start 7 metres right of Fluffing Up The Midge at left-trending twin cracks.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the right-hand crack, continue up the black vein on the right, to an obvious finish up a short corner.

Anderley

Length/grade/stars: 24m S

Start location:

Start 2 metres below and right of Woon Gumpus at a blunt boulder.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the slab up rightwards and step right into a niche with a triangular roof. Pass the roof on its right side, move up and continue diagonally up the right-trending cracks to the top.

Additional info:

Fluffing Up The Midge repeated, grade confirmed!

Escapement

Length/grade/stars: 19m S

Start location:

Start 6 metres below and right of Immaculate Groove.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Move up right for a metre or so and follow the short left-trending crack in the steep black wall for 2 metres. Escape left and amble up the slab to the top.

Tapestry

Length/grade/stars: 16m VS

Start location:

From the foot of the VD down-climb to the Sea-Level Cliff, scramble down to a barnacle ledge at low tide level. Move right (facing in) for 5 metres below a fine wall to reach a right-slanting crack; start here.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Climb the right-slanting crack to a ledge. Step left and move up a short wall to gain flakes at a break. Finish up the thin black seam above and left.

Niwlenn

Length/grade/stars: 25m VS

Start location:

Approach as for Tapestry, but continue rightwards for another 6 metres, around an awkward rib to gain a small ledge below a barnacle corner (low tide and calm seas!); there is a dark roof 8 metres above.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the barnacle corner and gritty crack above to ledge below the dark roof. Follow the groove right of the roof to a niche, step up left to a small ledge and use flakes to gain a large ledge. Keeping right of the recess, climb the entertaining steep wall and left-trending ramp to the top.

Additional info:

The name means fog bank in Cornish!

Date of ascent: 30/05/2016
Climbers: BJ Clarke, R Seymour

Miss Goodnight

Length/grade/stars: 15m VS

Start location:

Start at the remains of The Immaculate Runner, 6 metres around and to the left of the left-hand start to Launch.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Climb the smooth wall to the left of the arête to a break. Pull rightwards over a bulge and continue up a right-trending scoop to a finish up cracks in a short steep wall.

Pansy

Length/grade/stars: 20m D

Start location:

Start 5 metres LEFT of Painted Ladies at a cracked wall below a rib.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the cracked wall and continue up the rib via a crack on the right to a finish up the corner to its left. A fine direct version is Sweet William (19m S Seymour 28.5.16).

Climbers: BJ Clarke, A Dovey

Shark’s Fin

Length/grade/stars: 18m HVS

Start location:

Start 3 metres right of Blue Bayou below a crack just right of the edge of the wall.

Pitch descriptions:

5a Climb the crack steeply to a small roof. Step left onto the slabby wall and continue up rightwards to gain and follow a crack to good holds. Pull over a bulge to easier ground and the top.

Additional info:

The lower half had in-situ gear from an earlier attempt!

Climbers: BJ Clarke, P Watson, A Dovey, R Seymour

The Hoary Head

Length/grade/stars: 15m S

Start location:

Start 7 metres right of Shark’s Fin at the end of a sloping ledge.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Move around and right to gain a right-angled corner, up this to the top.

Steamboat Willie

Date of ascent: 30/05/2016
Length/grade/stars: 20m E1
Climbers: BJ Clarke, R Seymour

Start location:

Start as for Pink Moon.

Pitch descriptions:

5b Follow Pink Moon to the large footholds below its upper crack. Traverse right (low gear!) to the break of River Man. Continue diagonally rightwards up the red and white vein to the top.

Redolent

Length/grade/stars: 25m VS

Start location:

Start 2 metres left of Flamingo below a clean-cut corner on the left side of the rib (low tide!).

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the fine clean-cut corner to a ledge (optional belay if the sea threatens!). Continue up the groove and step right into an unusual flake chimney, which leads awkwardly to easier ground and the finishing terrace.

Shangri-La

Length/grade/stars: 30m HS

Start location:

Start as for Burnished.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Follow Burnished around rightwards onto the sidewall and to below its niche. Continue rightwards to a chimney. Descend slightly, cross the chimney and step up to good holds which lead to a ledge on the right. From the right end of the ledge pull up to easier ground and the miniature summit.

Date of ascent: 11/06/2016

Crows Awry

Length/grade/stars: 17m VS

Start location:

Start as for The Hoary Head.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Follow The Hoary Head around and right to below the right-angled corner. Step up the arête on the right and traverse right to reach the large flakes on the sidewall. Follow these upwards to a sloping ledge below the headwall. Move right and climb the steep, dark cracks to finish.

Middle Aged Spread

Length/grade/stars: 12m S

Start location:

Start as for Mouse’s Ear.

Pitch descriptions:

4c Follow Mouse’s Ear up the bouldery wall to the ledge. Continue bridging up the chimney until a flake high on the left rib can be gained. Use this to swing up and left, in a fine position to gain the finishing slab.

Making Your Mind Up

Length/grade/stars: 12m S

Start location:

Start 2 metres below and left of Viagra (suppl. p 77) on a small ledge.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Follow the holds up diagonally leftwards to the rib and take this on its right side to the top.

Additional info:

Viagra repeated, quite stiff, but thought to be S 4b!

Late Fading Stars

Date of ascent: 25/06/16
Length/grade/stars: 12m S
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Approach as for Clamity (CC Website!) to the large recess and golden tower. Continue down the right-hand (facing out) side of the large rock steps from the recess for a short way to gain a ledge below a dark, oblong-shaped roof.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Stride leftwards from the ledge onto good footholds, step immediately left again to reach a fine, hidden corner and climb this to a ledge. Continue up the dappled wall to finish left of the pointed block.

Nan Bred

Length/grade/stars: 19m S

Start location:

Five hundred metres south of Carn Boel the coast path narrows through a rocky defile. A further 90 metres south and clearly visible are twin ridge-like buttresses separated by a narrow zawn (vast potential, suggested name Cleft Buttress?). The two routes climbed so far are located on the hidden right wall of the right-hand (facing in) buttress. Approach by abseil (mid tide and below).
Start 10 metres right of the foot of the right-hand buttress on a flat boulder, below a wide recess and immediately left of a particularly smooth rib.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb a short corner just left of the smooth rib to a ledge at 4 metres. Step right and follow a fine little crack, before continuing up a groove and rib to finish.

Jizal Wall

Length/grade/stars: 21m HS

Start location:

Start 14 metres right of Nan Bred at a short right-slanting chimney in the lower right side of another recess.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Climb the slanting chimney as elegantly as possible and continue up the cracks in the right wall to a sloping ledge. Just left, pull up a steep wall to the right of a short corner and finish up the crackline above.

Auld Lang Syne

Length/grade/stars: 9m HS

Start location:

Thirty-five metres right (facing out) of the Promontory, is an attractive cracked wall. A further 25 metres right (facing out) past a beautiful rock pool is a black wall facing seaward. Start below the right edge of he black wall; accessed by scrambling or abseil (mid tide and below).

Pitch descriptions:

4c Climb the left side of the edge to a ledge. Make reachy moves up the right side of the edge to gain the top. Easier for the tall!

Umbra

Length/grade/stars: 11m S

Start location:

Twenty-five metres right (facing in) of Auld Lang Syne is the attractive cracked wall; , with an offwidth crack on its right and a shield of darker rock on its left facing seaward. Start on ledges above high tide level below the right side of the dark shield; accessed by abseil, or awkward scrambling across from the Promontory.

Pitch descriptions:

4a Move up to the break, follow the scoop rightwards for 2 metres, then step left and follow the right edge of the dark shield via the thin flake crack. Fine climbing!

Penumbra

Length/grade/stars: 14m VD

Start location:

Start 6 metres right of Umbra at a lower level.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb up rightwards to reach the crack immediately left of the offwidth. Go up the crack to where it widens and bends leftwards. Finish straight up the thinner crack above.

Valediction

Length/grade/stars: 12m E1

Start location:

Climb up rightwards to reach the crack immediately left of the offwidth. Go up the crack to where it widens and bends leftwards. Finish straight up the thinner crack above.

Pitch descriptions:

5a Climb the steep lower part of the edge, then follow the slabbier right side to the top.

Limpets Don’t Cry

Length/grade/stars: 8m HVS 5a *

Start location:

Eastern Walls area. From the top of Lighthouse Zawn go east under the small cliff and scramble down under a jammed boulder to enter a narrow gully which separates an extensive terrace from a small cliff. A few metres along the bed of the gully is a prominent vertical crack.

Pitch descriptions:

Start in the bed of the gully and climb the crack. Steep and sustained, but with excellent holds and protection.

Additional info:

Almost completely non-tidal. Our visits coincided with neap tides, when the gully stayed dry at high tide; however, it is possible that a high spring tide (or waves, of course) could affect the right-hand end.

The Inner Limpet

Length/grade/stars: 8m S

Start location:

Eastern Walls area: approach as for the route Limpet’s Don’t Cry. East of the big rock platform is a small, steep, juggy, black promontory, which overhangs the sea. Some 10m left of this is a triangular black slab of smoother rock.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the centre of the slab and finish more steeply on large holds. Easy climbing, but a touch bold.

Additional info:

Just tidal. Affected by the highest tides. Not recommended if a swell is running.

Date of ascent: 12/08/2016

Crouching Tiger, Hidden Limpet

Length/grade/stars: 9m VS 4b

Start location:

Eastern Walls area: for approach see the route Limpets Don’t Cry. Start at the left end of the gully, below and just right of the jammed boulder.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb to the jammed boulder; then move up right and climb the wall via a short, twisting crack.

The Silence of the Limpets

Length/grade/stars: 8m VS 4b

Start location:

Eastern Walls area: for approach see the route Limpets Don’t Cry. A few metres right of that route is an obvious, left-slanting crack.

Pitch descriptions:

Start in the bed of the gully, and climb the slanting crack. Sustained, but with good holds and protection.

Reservoir Limpets

Length/grade/stars: 8m S

Start location:

Eastern Walls area: for approach see the route Limpets Don’t Cry. Right of that route (and right of The Silence of the Limpets) the gully narrows. Start on the terrace, below a short, wide crack near the top of the face (this is just left of a square-cut arête).

Pitch descriptions:

Lean across the gully, step onto the face, and climb it on large holds, finishing via the short, wide crack. Easy climbing, but not much gear.

The Golden Compass

Length/grade/stars: 12m HS

Start location:

Start as for Dog-Leg (suppl. p 85).

Pitch descriptions:

4c Move right as for Sprint (CC Website) for 3 metres, then take the thin crack in the smooth wall; making good use of the large undercut to the right.

Girl Kissing

Length/grade/stars: 14m S

Start location:

Start 4 metres left of the chute of Postman’s Knock (suppl. p 89) at a short, right-slanting niche below the rib of the slab.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Pull into the niche and follow the delightful rib above to a ledge, before swarming up a short leaning wall to finish.

Ultra

Date of ascent: 11/08/2016
Length/grade/stars: 15m S
Climbers: BJ Clarke (solo)

Start location:

Start as for Umbra.

Pitch descriptions:

4b Follow Umbra to below its thin flake. Finger traverse leftwards and finish up the thin cracks in the centre of the shield. Neat, well-protected climbing on small positive holds.

Hands of Stone

Date of ascent: 13/04/2017
Length/grade/stars: 18m E2 5c worth stars
Climbers: Rob Seymour, James Mann

Start location:

Start on the flat-topped block between River Man and Magnolia Hawks (CC route archive 23 May 2016) at the bottom of the steep crack lurking at the back of the impending corner/groove.

Pitch descriptions:

Fight up the widening crack to an awkward exit into a scoop above. Continue with interest up the thin continuation crack and wall above. Fine climbing. A determined approach pays.

Additional info:

Named for Roberto Duran, the great Panamanian boxer who liked nothing more than a good inside brawl. Pink Moon (further left, CC route archive 30 May 2016) repeated, quality confirmed: good rock, solid gear, good climbing, well worth stars. Over-graded at E1 5b?

Cassini

Date of ascent: 22/04/17
Length/grade/stars: 20m VS 5a *
Climbers: Rob Seymour, James Mann

Start location:

Start on the sloping platform left of the large recess (containing The Runner, etc.) as for The Launch.

Pitch descriptions:

Get onto to the flat ledge on The Launch from the left-hand side. Step up and left again to reach a good foot ledge at the base of a very shallow crack/groove in the fine golden wall above. Make neat moves up the crack/groove to reach a rightward-trending ramp at its top, finishing up a steep flaky crack above. Very worthwhile.

The Precariat

Length/grade/stars: 22m E3 5c *

Start location:

The wall between Prommie Bastards and Bristletail Suicide.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb to a tiny overlap at 5m (good small cams) then make some precarious moves to the larger overlap. Climb this on good holds, but with limited protection, and finish easily

Additional info:

This route has missed the deadline for the new South Coast & Lizard guide; unfortunately the description refers to routes which are only described in that guide , so they won’t make sense until it appears. Top roped it first.

Swing to the Right

Length/grade/stars: 2m S

Pitch descriptions:

This is just a variation on Socialist Saunter. Climb that route for 5m, swing right on huge flakes, and finish easily up the slab.

64th Street

Date of ascent: 28/04/17
Length/grade/stars: 25m VS
Climbers: Andy March, Malcolm Brown

Start location:

A few metres down and left from the start of Sesame Street (non tidal but can be affected by rough sea).

Pitch descriptions:

Five metres left of Sesame Street is a blunt arête. This route takes the crack line just right of the arete, crossing parallel rising breaks low down.

Additional info:

The parallel rising breaks can be used as an escape route (V Diff).

100 Days

Date of ascent: 30/04/17
Length/grade/stars: 15m VS 4c
Climbers: James Mann, Rob Seymour

Start location:

Start on the sea level platform below the ramp which leads to the start of Immaculate Groove at the foot of a V groove.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb a V groove easily to a ledge. Pull steeply on to the left wall to reach a ragged layback crack. Climb this strenuously to a large ledge. Move right to finish easily at the top of the ramp. Cam belays.

Additional info:

Climbed onsight.

Treen Team Special

Date of ascent:
Length/grade/stars: 15m E3 5c *
Climbers: Will Hornby, Daisy Peters, James Mann, Rob Seymour

Start location:

Buttress at the far left end of Treen towards Logan Rock. Start at the right hand end of the ledge.

Pitch descriptions:

Gain the ledge via a 5c (English) boulder problem, arrange low gear in and around the ledge. Pull some tricky but steady moves higher and higher above the gear, until and big flattie is gained. Follow the large spike to the top. The climbing is steady but the gear is sparse. Top end E3. Climbed in cold conditions without feeling in fingers or toes, grade is a guess.

Additional info:

Climbed Onsight

The Runic Jumper

Date of ascent: 05/05/2017
Length/grade/stars: 7m E2 5c *
Climbers: Billy Ward, Tom Last

Start location:

Looking out from the rip off parking in Lamorna Cove, a massively obvious cracked wall is apparent about half way around the eastern side of the cove, go there.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the crack, the ledge near the start detract a little, but nice pushy climbing and worth a star. Great micro route. Could be done with pads, but as if anyone is going to bother with that, plus there’s gear so might as well be led.

Additional info:

One of the best aretes in Cornwall is passed on the approach to The Runic Jumper if you take the beach. Unfortunately it looks impossible, or if not then at the very least cutting edge difficulty + probable death type thing. Just in case anyone in Lamorna is looking for that kind of thing!

Life of Brian

Date of ascent: 20/02/2018
Length/grade/stars: 97m E3
Climbers: Pete Saunders, Brian Hannon

Start location:

Would be between route 56 and 57 in 2018 CC Cornwall guide. It climbs the seaward face of the Leaning Pinnacles from the boulder beach.

Pitch descriptions:

An Alpine-style adventure with more than its fair share of loose rock.

1. 45m 4c Climb the obvious smooth groove then trend left over easier unprotected loose slabs. It is safest to approach the belay from the left. Belay on a spike at the base of Off Width His Head. (It might be prudent to seek a safer stance futher left to protect the belayer from potential rockfall.)
2. 22m 5b Step up right onto the flat ledge. Move up and place gear in the crack on the left before spanning right to an offwidth crack. Make bold moves up this to good gear at a steepening, then break right onto a slab. Carefully pick your way through the loose rock to a ledge composed of loose rocks. Step left to a wide crack (cam4) and make commiting moves up the wall immediately to its left to arrive at a good belay stance.
3. 20m 4a As for Off Width His Head.
4. 20m 4a As for Off Width His Head.

Additional info:

On-sight

Comment

At crag today 8/3/2018, this seems to have fallen into the cove, large sandy weetabix scar and debris in bottom of the cove.

Comment

There is no jammed block to belay on at half height as stated in CC guide only a sloping slab, looks like it has washed away. Finished direct up the corner which is not hard but not protected without big cams , has the odd loose block and requires care. The whole thing is harder than Dowsers Route worth Hard V Diff and a star especially if you were to step left and finish up Dowsers pitch 2.

Comment

On the photo diagram on page 134 of the guide the line of 13 Gingerbread Crack is wrongly marked. The route marked 13 is actually The Great Beast Unleashed. Gingerbread Crack is the barely discernible line just right.

Honey Bunny Wall

Date of ascent: 2012
Length/grade/stars: 7m HVS 5b
Climbers: Chris Griffiths, Sara Scaife

Start location:

In the centre of the obvious sea level wall on the east side of the cove.

Pitch descriptions:

Climb the crack, tricky at first, passing a ledge in a niche at half height.

Additional info:

I think this is the route claimed by Billy Ward and Tom Last called The Runic Jumper. The thin crack to the left of this was also climbed at E3 5c. The wall to the right is about UK 6a and has yet to be led.

Various members of the Cornwall Climbing Club have climbed about 50 boulder problems in the area between Mousehole and Tater Du, about 20 micro routes on both sides of the cove, and even some 30m longer routes. These were considered minor additions which were best left unrecorded.

Honey Bunny Wall is however a great suntrap with lots of easily accessed problems across the grade range, great for a winter workout.

Housel Bay to Cadgwith > Bass Point > Bass Point West Cliff

Pulver

14m VD
11-Apr-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Twelve metres above and right of Concrete Shoes is a prow with a thin crack snaking up its left side. Scramble up to below the crack. Gain and follow the crack, making a steep pull into the finishing groove above.

Housel Bay to Cadgwith > Pen Olver Sea Cliffs > Pen Olver Slab Wall

Olvers Army

15m HS 4b
11-Apr-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Great Slanting. Climb Great Slanting for 3 metres, then swing right and gain a standing position on a jug on the rib with interest. Continue elegantly up the rib, past two welcome spikes, to a ledge. Move up the short rib above and trend rightwards to the finishing terrace.

Housel Bay to Cadgwith > Bass Point > Bass Point West Cliff

Awake the Hake

18m S 4a
11-Apr-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start just right of Sleeping Fish around the edge. Trend rightwards into a white groove and climb this steeply, pulling over onto the slab. Finish up this keeping near its right edge. Just left, a direct route up the centre of the slab, with an interesting move over the overlap is Bloatered ( 18m S 4a Clarke 11.4.18).

Predannack Head Area > Men-te-heul

Boom and Bust

15m E1 5b ☆☆
28-Apr-2018, Andy March, Nigel Coe
Located in Booming Zawn (guidebook page 312). The impressive chimney at the right hand side of the wall gives a good route with an atmosphere out of all proportion to its modest length. Good rock and protection. Low tide and a calm sea needed. Start from a sloping ledge a few metres up the slabby corner of Boom with a View gained by a short abseil (obvious from above) or from the zawn bed. From the right side of the ledge, step down and swing into the chimney using a prominent barnacle-covered hold. Climb the chimney to a sudden easing, and continue easily to belays on the ridge. Climbed on the morning of the guidebook launch party.

Chair Ladder > Main Cliff

Ghostwalk

16m E4 6a ☆☆
30-Apr-2018, Pat Littlejohn, Dave Garner
Immaculate climbing up the wall left of South-East Face Direct (see CC 2017 Chair Ladder guide p149). Start 2-3 metres left of South-East Face Direct at a short-lived crack. Climb to a deep pocket hold at 6 metres, move up left to a thin flake, above which bold climbing up the face gains the large belay ledge and a variety of finishes. Copied from entry in the Count House (Children’s) log book.

Chair Ladder > Ash Can Gully Area

Yuv!

25m VS
30-Apr-2018, Pat Littlejohn, Dave Garner
Climb the slanting fault right of Sea Horse to reach the prominent ‘ears’ and finish in a highly photogenic position up the arête. Write up found in the Count House (Children’s) log book.

Chair Ladder > Pinnacle Gully Area

Buddy

25m S 4a
16-Apr-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres below and right of Zola’s Walkies below a steep striated crack. Climb the striated crack to a ledge, and follow its highly-featured continuation to a finish up opposing flakes.

Housel Bay to Cadgwith > Bass Point > Bass Point Cull Wall Area

Duck Duet

18m S 4b
22-May-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start at the bottom of the descent ramp as for Meteorite. Climb the pleasant gully above the narrow inlet to a large ledge. Move up and layback steeply leftwards before following the flake holds to a block ledge. Belay and scramble out.

Housel Bay to Cadgwith > Bass Point > Bass Point East

Plinko

25m VD
22-May-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres right of Bingo in a triangular niche just above barnacle level. Climb out of the niche, step left and follow the slab to a ledge. Trend rightwards and finish up the cracks.

Housel Bay to Cadgwith > Bass Point > Bass Point East

Eyes Down

27m S
22-May-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Plinko. Traverse right for 3 metres and follow the slab to a bulge. Pull over, slightly to the left, and move right to climb the left side of the edge, finishing to the right.

Chair Ladder > Bulging Wall

Route Comment: The Great Beast Unleashed, The Gingerbread Crack

01-Jan-1970, Pete O’Sullivan
On page 135 route 13 should be The Great Beast Unleashed and route 14 should be The Gingerbread Crack. This will make the lines marked on the photo diagrams on pages 135 and 136 correct.

Carn Boel Area

International Spectrum Dancer

17m E4 6a ☆
21-May-2017, Will Hornby, Rob Seymour
Starting a few metres left of Riverman, climb directly up the face utilising a small undercut flake to step left. Reach into two sloped breaks, continue straight up until the crack of Rivermab is reached. Step right and finish up the short wall above.

Cribba Head > West Buttress

Treen Team Special

15m E3 5c ☆
10-Dec-2017, Will Hornby, Daisy Peters, James Mann
Actually at Treen but that wasn’t an option! Climb the shallow groove trending slightly right until a sudden easing follow this easily to the top. Bold but fairly straightforward moves maybe slightly tricksome to read.

Carn Boel Area > Nanjizal Bay: Zawn Pyg

Purple Divide

14m HS 4b
09-Jul-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
One hundred and fifty metres east of the cleft buttress containing Nan Bred etc (CC Website!) and 20 metres short of an ancient stone wall is a purple/red buttress just below the coast path (suggested name Purple Buttress?). Best gained by following the Nanjizal path from Curlew Cottage in Trevescan (GR 356 248). The buttress lies 75 metres to the west (GR 356 237), when the coast path is joined. Start towards the left side of the buttress at a flat wall just left of a gully. Climb the central seam to a large ledge. Continue up just left of the thin crack. To the right, the flake cracks in the right wall of the gully give the energetic Sheen Purple (15m VD Clarke 9.7.18).

Carn Boel Area > Nanjizal Bay: Zawn Pyg

Purple Dye Hedral

17m S 4b
09-Jul-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 6 metres below and right of Purple Divide at a rounded rib. Climb the rib and the fine corner groove above.

Carn Boel Area > Nanjizal Bay: Zawn Pyg

Imperial Purple

18m HS 4b
09-Jul-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres right of Purple Dye Hedral below a fine-looking arête. Climb two short grooves and proceed daintily up the left side of the arête to a ledge. Finish directly up the upper edge. Excellent!

Carn Boel Area > Nanjizal Bay: Zawn Pyg

Purple Patch

20m S 4a
09-Jul-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres below and right of Imperial Purple below a blank red wall. Gain and climb the red wall via its right edge, continue up the short walls to the top.

Fox Promontory > South Face

Cobblestone

28m S
10-Jul-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres above and right of Tom. Climb the shallow gully to the terrace below the main corner of Tom. Continue up the right edge of the tower and follow the golden wall almost to the roof, where a traverse left gains the finishing crack of Tom. Twenty metres right, the centre of the stratified wall gives Layered (11m VD Clarke 10.7.18).

Fox Promontory > South Face

Terra Nova

25m S 4a
10-Jul-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start at the foot of the final descent groove of the Easy Way Down. Climb the rib on the right for 3 metres, then traverse ledges rightwards into the zawn to an optional stance below a groove just before the wall juts out in earnest (at Pull Over?). Follow the groove on rounded holds and overcome the slight bulge by using the quartz vein. Follow the slabby groove to easier ground. INFO– the large rounded boulder at the zawn entrance has disappeared!

Fox Promontory > South Face

Black Wall Corner

14m VD
10-Jul-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Opposite Terra Nova, the Black Wall is bounded on its right by an attractive corner. Start at its foot, gained by scrambling down the slabby ridge above. Climb the pleasant corner. The cracks in its right wall are Foxing (8m S Clarke 10.7.18).

Fox Promontory > Black Wall

Groove and Slab

42m D
10-Jul-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Fifteen metres to the left (facing out) of the Black Wall is a zawn with a stepped back. The main feature of its right wall (facing in) is a wide groove with a rock scar in its upper reaches. Start at the foot of the groove, reached by scrambling down the slabby ridge above the Black Wall. 1 25m Climb the right side of the groove, continue past the rock scar and belay at the right end of a terrace. 2 17m Follow the right-hand section of the slabs and up the shorter walls to gain easier ground.

Lizard Point

Route Comment: Sirius

01-Jan-1970,
The first ascent details are incorrect. It should read I. Peters, P O’Sullivan alternate leads.

Carn Barra > Southern Platform

Round the Horn

28m VS 4b
12-Jul-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Curve Appeal at a thin, right-facing flake in the smooth wall. Climb the flake and the rib above and slightly to the left to a ledge. Move up the crack on the left and manoeuvre onto the horn on the right. Descend for a move down to the right, step right and climb a short crack to easier ground. The very tall or very bold, may perform a stretch or a jump to avoid the step down! Twenty-five metres above and right of the top of Round the Horn on an escarpment is a cleanish slab, Short Stop (11m VD Clarke 12.7.18).

Carn Barra > Southern Platform

Curve Appeal

25m S 4a
12-Jul-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Twenty metres left (facing in) of the top of the Criss Cross Face is a buttress having a smooth wall at its base on its left side. Start at a short, left-facing corner at the left side of the smooth wall. Climb the corner and the slab just right to a ledge. Continue up the flakes and the short headwall to finish.

Chair Ladder

Swell Escape

140m VD
30-Jul-2018, Paul Headland, Ella Headland, Kate Headland, Juli Charlton
Chair Ladder, South Coast Guide, page 135 Approach: As for bulging wall, to the small corner 6m right of the jammed boulder Swell escape, VD, Paul Headland, Ella Headland, Kate Headland, Juli Charlton, 30/07/18 P1, 25m, From the ledge 6m right of the jammed boulder start as for route 12 (Maureen) climb to the first large ledge of Maureen then take the crack from the left corner of the ledge to another large ledge, climb the corner at the back of this ledge to more broken ground. Can also be climbed in three short pitched in order to gain height above the sea quickly! P2, 50m, Climb broken ground and grassy ledges. P3, 30m, Climb broken ground and grassy ledges. P4, 35m, Climb stepped ledges and short walls towards a narrowing gully culminating in a steep narrow chimney, wriggle up this to the crest of the ridge.

Lizard Point

Count Down to Chaos

20m VD
31-Jul-2018, Paul Headland, Kate Headland
Bass Point West Cliff, South Coast Guide, page 398 Approach: As per approach notes on page 398. Count down to chaos, VD, 20m, Paul Headland, Kate Headland, 31/7/18 From the flat triangular ledge 2m right of route 3 (Concrete Shoes) climb towards the narrow left slanting crack, follow this to a comfy stance.
Topos …

Lizard Point

Annie Eleven

20m VD
13-Aug-2018, Tom Pearce, Ben Pearce
Bass Point West Cliff, South Coast Guide, page 398 Approach: As per approach notes on page 398. Annie Eleven, VD, 20m, Tom Pearce, Ben Pearce, 31/7/18 From the corner of the flat triangular ledge, climb the crack to a ledge, move right and climb the open corner to the top. Not as hard as the name would suggest!

Topos …

Lizard Point

Jeremy the Seal

15m VD
31-Jul-2018, Ben Pearce, Tom Pearce
Bass Point West Cliff, South Coast Guide, page 398 Approach: As per approach notes on page 398. Jeremy the seal, VD, 15m, Ben Pearce, Tom Pearce, 31/7/18 Start as for count house kids and climb the thin crack 2m to the right.

Lizard Point

Count House Kids

15m VD
13-Aug-2018, Tom Pearce, Kate Headland
Bass Point West Cliff, South Coast Guide, page 398 Approach: As per approach notes on page 398. Count house kids, VD, 15m, Tom Pearce, Kate Headland, 31/7/18 Climb the stepped corner between the wall and the slab.

Lizard Point

Seal of Approval

25m M
31-Jul-2018, Ben Pearce
Bass Point West Cliff, South Coast Guide, page 398 Approach: As per approach notes on page 398. Seal of approval, Mod, 25m, Ben Pearce, 31/7/18 Start as for route 4 (sleeping fish) and climb the right arête of the slab to the top.

Topos …

Lizard Point

Caught Red Handed

30m HVS 4c
31-Jul-2018, Ben Pearce, Paul Headland
Pen Olver East Face, South Coast Guide, page 396 Approach: Via abseil to the ledge as for route 93 (Pisapis) Caught red handed, HVS 4c*, 30m, Ben Pearce, Paul Headland From the pedestal take a rising leftwards traverse towards the corner, climb the slab/corner until under the main corner. Climb the impending main corner to a pedestal then the overhanging groove above. Exit right of the tower avoiding the loose blocks. (this may be the same as route 92 (Pisapis) if the line on the topo showing route 92 is incorrect)

Topos …

Tregiffian

Ivan Ellen

17m VD
02-Aug-2018, Paul Headland, Ella Headland
Tregiffian Cove, South Coast Guide, page 233 Approach: As for the main ‘Solomon Browne’ slab Ivan Ellen. VD, 17m, Paul Headland, Ella Headland, 02/08/18 2m right of the cleft where Solomon Browne starts climb the thin crack initially via bulging steps then follow the crack to the top of the buttress. Named after the current Newlyn life boat.

Topos …

Tregiffian

Slipway

17m VD
02-Aug-2018, Paul Headland, Ella Headland
Tregiffian Cove, South Coast Guide, page 233 Approach: As for the main ‘Solomon Browne’ slab Slipway, VD, 17m, Paul Headland, Ella Headland, 02/08/18 Begin 1m right of the previous route in the ‘slipway’ feature, climb this to its top and continue to a ledge at ¾ height on the right of the buttress. Traverse back left to the front of the buttress and continue to the top.

Topos …

Housel Bay to Cadgwith > Housel Cove > Outfall Wall

Route Comment: Black Lab to Golden Lab

01-Jan-1970,
Nigel Barry

Crag has fallen down Black Lab to Golden Lab (4 routes), daft dog is still climbable. To make it more dangerous the concrete snake mentioned in the description was the cover of an armoured telegraph cable? A large granite block is dangling over the top of the cliff just attached to the cable. Chocolate Lab II reclimbed at XS (extremely stupid) by N.Barry solo 8th Sep 2018, at least two black spot.

Housel Bay to Cadgwith > Pen Olver Sea Cliffs

Borrowed Light

15m VS 4c
24-Oct-2018, Andy March
To the right of (the undergraded) Dolphin Surprise is an arête. This route takes the crack just right of the arête, then the corner above (which is the lefthand of the three grooves mentioned in the guide)and finishes up a slabby wall. Such an obvious line, it may have been climbed before.

Housel Bay to Cadgwith > Housel Cove > Pinnacle Promontory

Greymalkin

16m S 4a
07-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Eight metres to the right (facing out) of the arch is a black slab, a further 10 metres to the right (facing out) is a fine, grey, west-facing slab; which is gained by scrambling down the ridge to its right (facing out) to barnacle level. The main feature of this slab is a large shallow niche, above which a crack diverges. Start just left of the niche at a thin crackline. Climb a steep little wall and continue up the thin crackline, taking the final bulge slightly to the right.

Housel Bay to Cadgwith > Housel Cove > Pinnacle Promontory

Greystoke

15m VD
07-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start just right of Greymalkin at the large shallow niche. Climb through the niche and follow the left-hand crack to the top.

Housel Bay to Cadgwith > Housel Cove > Pinnacle Promontory

Grayling

15m S
07-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Greystoke. Step across onto a ledge system and move up into a small niche. Finish up the crack in the corrugated rock above and left. The line of cracks just right, keeping left of the edge is Ghlas (14m VD Clarke 7.10.18).

Housel Bay to Cadgwith > Housel Cove > Pinnacle Promontory

Ring Housel

10m VD
07-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Ten metres left (facing out) of the grey slab containing Greystoke etc is a black slab, gained by scrambling down the ridge to its left (facing out) to half height. Then traverse a narrow ledge leftwards (facing in) to near its very end below a right-slanting crack; start here. Climb the right-slanting crack.

Housel Bay to Cadgwith > Housel Cove > Pinnacle Promontory

House Mouse

10m VD
07-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres left of Radon Rabbit, below a flake crack. Follow the flake crack rightwards, cross Radon Rabbit and trend rightwards to finish. Add Info:- Inside Lane repeated, grade confirmed! But it doesn’t have the same finish as Radon Rabbit!

Housel Bay to Cadgwith > Housel Cove > Pinnacle Promontory

Spook TV

7m VD
07-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start from the upper platform, 2 metres right of the upper section of Passing Ghosts.

Housel Bay to Cadgwith > Housel Cove > Pinnacle Promontory

Spooky Crack

9m S
07-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres right of Spook TV at the right end of the upper platform. Stride across and move up to the break. Continue up the steep crack immediately left of family Fun Day.

Housel Bay to Cadgwith > Pen Olver Sea Cliffs > Pen Olver Slab Wall

Bosgwyn Buttress

18m S 4a
07-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Bosgwyn Steps. Move up, then rightwards on yellow rock to an uncomfortable ledge and gain the top of a small pinnacle on the right awkwardly. Climb a short corner, above and slightly right and follow the slabs, in a fine position to the top.

Housel Bay to Cadgwith > Pen Olver Upper Buttresses > West Headland Buttress

Faux Fur

14m S
08-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Twelve metres right of Hairy Heart around the corner and just right of a broken chimney is a reasonably clean narrow facet wall with a short diagonal crack in its upper reaches; start here. Climb the short rib, pass a bulge to its right and continue up past the diagonal crack.

Housel Bay to Cadgwith > Pen Olver Sea Cliffs > Prison Zawn

Jailbird

22m VD
08-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Follow the approach to Prison Zawn from Pen Olver Tower to just before the step across the trench. Above ina hight buttress is a niche topped by a square-cut roof. Start on a high platform below the niche. Move up into the niche, pass the roof to its right and follow the right-trending line to the summit in a spectacular position.

Housel Bay to Cadgwith > Pen Olver Sea Cliffs > Prison Zawn

Dark Portal

14m M
08-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
At the Prison Zawn end of the squeeze, the seaward stack has a slabby rib rising above; start here. Climb the rib via the shallow groove and cracks. Descent:- abseil or down-climb in the vicinity of the up-climb (M).

Housel Bay to Cadgwith > Pen Olver Sea Cliffs > Prison Zawn

Usual Suspects

15m S 4a
08-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
From the abseil point down Pisapis, scramble down a ridge on the left (facing out) for a few metres to a hidden ramp leading down rightwards (facing out). Scramble down this to high ledges. A scramble rightwards (facing in) for 10 metres reaches the first main feature, a large broken groove with a white impending wall to its right. To the left of the groove is a slabbier wall at whose base is a newly-fallen large block! Start below the right edge of the slabby wall and just left of the large groove. Climb the edge until it steepens. Step right into the groove and follow its left flank to the top.

Housel Bay to Cadgwith > Pen Olver Sea Cliffs > Prison Zawn

Gangplank

24m VD
08-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 8 metres right of Usual Suspects along barnacled ledges below a wide crack just left of a fine wall. Follow the wide crack for 7 metres, then follow the interrupted slabs diagonally leftwards to finish up a short corner.

Housel Bay to Cadgwith > Pen Olver Sea Cliffs > Prison Zawn

Free Sample

17m S
08-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Gangplank. Follow Gangplank for 6 metres, then climb the right-trending quartz-lined crack for 3 metres, before gaining a ledge up and left. Pull through the bulge just left of the prow to easier ground.

Housel Bay to Cadgwith > Green Lanes Cliff > Micronut Wall

Micro Switch

10m S 4b
08-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of the left arête of Micronut Wall. Climb up to a hand ledge (large cam placement above!), traverse delicately left and finish up the break just right of the arête.

Housel Bay to Cadgwith > Green Lanes Cliff > Micronut Wall

Revision

11m HS 4b
08-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Mad Monkeys. Climb diagonally left to below the groove of Vision On. Finish up the groove with surprising difficulty.

Housel Bay to Cadgwith > Green Lanes Cliff > Micronut Wall

Teeterville

10m HVS 4c
08-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Mad Monkeys below a thin seam. Climb the serious seam with some delicacy and finish up the yellow headwall.

Housel Bay to Cadgwith > Green Lanes Cliff > Micronut Wall

Pressurized

10m HS 4b
08-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 3 metres right of Persuasion below the bulging arête. Climb quickly up the flat holds and continue to the ledge on Persuasion. Finish by trending leftwards up the scoop and headwall

Add Info:- Persuasion repeated, thought D! Mad Monkeys repeated, grade confirmed!

Lighthouse Cliffs Area > The Lighthouse Cliffs > Lighthouse West Island

Nerves of Mush

13m HS 4a
09-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres left of Prawn Stars, where the barnacled wall relents. Pull up the wall to gain good holds at a shelf. Step right for a metre and climb directly to the top.

Lighthouse Cliffs Area > The Lighthouse Cliffs > Lighthouse West Island

Crawling Crabs

21m S 4a
09-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Nerves of Mush. Move up to reach the good holds at the shelf, then traverse right to Prawn Stars. Continue rightwards, moving up slightly to where the shelves peter out. Climb up to gain the slanting break of Scampering Scampi and finish as for that climb.

Lighthouse Cliffs Area > The Lighthouse Cliffs > Lighthouse West Island

Scampering Scampi

12m S 4a
09-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres right of Lizard Lurve, at the right end of the wall. Climb the edge on awkward shelving rock to better holds and a slanting break. Move up rightwards to the upper edge and finish up its right side.

Lighthouse Cliffs Area > The Lighthouse Cliffs > Lighthouse Head Cliffs

Penguin’s Chuff

18m VD
09-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Seal Boy. Climb the centre of the slabby wall right of the Seal Boy corner.

Lighthouse Cliffs Area > The Lighthouse Cliffs > Bumble Island

Ornery

16m HS 4b
09-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 8 metres right of Broken Arrow, just right of a thin crack (Quiver Me Timbers), snaking up a black impending wall, below a thin seam up a blunt rib. Climb the steepening seam and pull over to gain easier-angled ground. Climb the slanting corner and scramble to the top.

Lighthouse Cliffs Area > The Lighthouse Cliffs > Bumble Island

Dexter

20m D
09-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres right of Swept Clean at the foot of the descent gully. Climb directly up the face on the right via a steepening at half-height and finish up the yellow rib.

Predannack Head Area > Pedn Clifton Area > Klein Zawn

Mavournee

21m S 4a
10-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
From the top of Klein, walk south-westwards along the edge for 12 metres and scramble down a narrow ramp on the right (facing out) for 5 metres, below the west face of the Pedn Crifton headland itself. A good crack in the right (facing out) wall of the ramp provides good placements for a 15 metres abseil to two small square-cut ledges (all tides, and above the smooth impending bottom wall). These ledges can be reached by a dainty (4a) traverse from the right (facing in). Traverse left, crossing a wide crack, for 4 metres to reach a short, steep crack. Up this to a niche, step right and follow a shallow groove to a ledge; from where juggy cracks lead to the start of the approach ramp.

Predannack Head Area > Pedn Clifton Area > Klein Zawn

Meraviglioso

16m HS 4b
10-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Mavournee. Move up the rib on the left to gain and follow the superb thin crack in its right side to a ledge. The short wall above gains the approach ramp. A combination of good gear, finger-locks and crimps should prove irresistible! The intermittent groove, forming the line of the abseil is, Escapement (14m M Clarke 10.10.18).

Predannack Head Area > Pedn Clifton Area > Klein Zawn

Plaque

13m S 4a
10-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
From the abseil point for Mavournee etc, continue down the ramp for 8 metres to reach a recess below an overhanging squeeze chimney, with a loose flake crack to its right. Climb the slab just right of the loose flake crack to a delicate finish.

Predannack Head Area > Pedn Clifton Area > Klein Zawn

Patsy Klein

16m D
10-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres below and right of Plaque on a flat ledge. Climb two successive short slabs and a little corner. Continue on huge holds and finish rightwards.

Predannack Head Area > Pedn Clifton Area > Klein Zawn

Jug Dream

17m VD
10-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Patsy Klein. Follow the shallow groove above and slightly right through what appears to be three smooth bulges.

Predannack Head Area > Pedn Clifton Area > Klein Zawn

Cheese and Chalk

45m HS 4a
10-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres from the back of the bay on a large block below the huge sloping ledge that leads up to the top of Klein. Climb the short unmistakeable white slab and move leftwards up two gangways (ignoring the smooth holdless corner above!), until stopped by loose overhanging rock. Make a bold layback move up onto the ledge on the right and traverse rightwards along the shelf just above for 4 metres, until a steep juggy pull gains the main break below the upper slabs. Trend up leftwards to the leftmost, red-hued slab and pad up this to the ridge.

Lighthouse Cliffs Area > Foghorn Cliffs > Fog Buttress

Young Shelley

10m D
21-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 6 metres left of Stairway to Devon below a V-groove. Climb the juggy left wall of the V-groove, trend rightwards near the top to finish up a miniscule groove.

Lighthouse Cliffs Area > Foghorn Cliffs > Fog Buttress

Meemaw

15m S 4b
21-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start immediately right of Stairway to Devon below the rib. Climb the right side of the rib to a blanker section at half-height. A thin crack just right (left of the crack of Salty Sea Dogs), proves the key leading to delicate moves back left and up to better holds and the top. Add Info:- Salty Sea Dogs repeated, grade confirmed!

Lighthouse Cliffs Area > The Lighthouse Cliffs > Bumble Island

Norleans

20m VD
21-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres left of Far South and just right of the loose slanting corner that bounds the slab to its left. Climb the disjointed thin cracks, eventually trending rightwards up the more continuous crack.

Lighthouse Cliffs Area > The Lighthouse Cliffs > Bumble Island

Heart of Texas

20m VD
21-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start just right of Norleans below a flat flake hold. Stand on the flake hold, step right and folloe the fine crackline to the top.

Lighthouse Cliffs Area > The Lighthouse Cliffs > Bumble Island

Archaine Saw

20m S 4a
21-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Far South below a horizontal niche at 3 metres. Gain the niche and follow the crack to the top. Graded for its serious, brittle start!

Lighthouse Cliffs Area > The Lighthouse Cliffs > Bumble Island

Swept Clean

21m VD
21-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres right of Senior Service and a couple of metres left of the foot of the descent gully. Start up a thin crack, then trend leftwards up another thin crack system, then climb more directly up lighter-coloured rock via a small overlap to the top.

Lighthouse Cliffs Area > The Lighthouse Cliffs > Bumble Island

Mister Bumble

17m M
21-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start immediately right of Dexter below the right-bounding rib of the slab. Follow the rib and the yellow rocks above on huge holds.

Lighthouse Cliffs Area > The Lighthouse Cliffs > Bumble Island

Steeper Fayre

14m S 4a
21-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 6 metres up the ramp to the right of Mister Bumble, below a white niche at 4 metres. Gain a standing position in the niche, continue to a ledge and finish up a blocky groove.

Lighthouse Cliffs Area > The Lighthouse Cliffs > Bumble Island

Bumbling Fool

16m HS 4c
22-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 4 metres right of Broken Arrow on a sloping ledge on the opposite side of the narrow zone and overlooking Bumble Pool. From the right end of the sloping ledge, pull onto the shelving wall above the water and traverse right to better holds. Move up and step rightwards across a wide crack to easier ground. Slant rightwards and finish up the rib.

Lighthouse Cliffs Area > The Lighthouse Cliffs > Bumble Island

Austere

14m S 4a
22-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
To the left (facing in) of Broken Arrow around the corner occupied by the triangular pillar (although in reality this is a grey pillar), is the sombre north-facing wall of Bumble Island. Near the left end of this wall a wide/crack rake slants up leftwards. Start just right of this rake at the left-hand of two thin, left-trending cracks. Gain the crack with interest and follow it to belays on a shelf on the left. Descent:- avoid the loose crud above by down-climbing a few metres (D), then scramble down the rake to the base.

Lighthouse Cliffs Area > The Lighthouse Cliffs > Bumble Island

Sombre Aero

17m S
22-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Ten metres right of Austere and 5 metres left of the triangular wall are two tramline cracks slanting leftwards, whilst above a thin crackline goes directly up the slabby wall; start here. Climb the thin crackline directly up the slabby wall, taking care with the rock as the top is approached. Descent:- abseil, or down-climb (M) the gangway to the right (facing in), which forms the left flank of the triangular wall.

Boscawen Point

Bostik

18m VS 4b ☆
19-Nov-2018, RJ Seymour, BJ Clarke
Area/Approach A hundred metres or so south-east of the routes on Boscawen Cliff (pages 223-225 CC 2017 Chair Ladder guidebook) the rugged, conical tower of Boscawen Point barges out into the sea (OS grid ref 432 228). The best approach is from the west as for Boscawen Cliff, continuing south east over the top of the headland following the South West Coast Path for a further hundred metres or so down slabby rocks until it makes a sharp left turn toward Tregiffian, now visible to the east. A fairly distinct fisherman’s path branches off this bend, rightwards at first (facing out) then leftwards down a series of easy grassy slopes and slabby rocks to good gearing up spots on the landward side of the neck connecting the mainland to Boscawen Point. This is an easy way to approach Boscawen Cliff as well, contour rightwards (facing out) from this point over easy rocks to the foot of the wall of Looking-Glass War, etc. much less thorny and unpleasant than approaches described in the guidebook. Boscawen Point is accessible up to a couple of hours either side of high tide, but the flat rocks connecting to the mainland become sea-washed and dangerously exposed to swell.

A three-tiered buttress, black in the lower sections, golden above, faces landward across the flat rocks connecting to the mainland, identifiable by a widening crack/ crevasse on the right hand side of the middle tier of the buttress. Start at the bottom right hand side of the buttress, left of a wide black slippery chimney/ groove system. Climb leftwards up flakes to a wide ledge immediately below the crevasse. Climb this, very large cams protect, and a natural thread runner round a jammed block on the left. Quit the crevasse for the shallow corner/crack directly above. The crack widens and is a bit awkward. Finish on an ample ledge and good belays. Scramble off rightwards (facing out) over ledges then carefully down the black slippery chimney groove system.

Pordenack Point Area > Main Area > The Amphitheatre

Thumbelina

15m D
14-Nov-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start on a large ledge 5 metres above and left of the starting corner of Slagroom. Gained by scrambling down Longships Ridge, followed by a down-climb (D), or short abseil down the steeper rocks. From the ledge traverse leftwards for 4 metres across a decomposing vein. Climb a short corner, then follow the seaward face of a small attractive tower. Nice climbing!

Pordenack Point Area > Main Area > The Amphitheatre

Elbow Slap

16m VD
14-Nov-2018, BJ Clarje (solo)
Start as for Thumbelina on the large ledge. Climb the pleasant rib above and right, via the grooves, slabs and cracks.

Porthguarnon Cove > Porthguarnon East > Middle Tier

Line Dance

42m S 4b
15-Nov-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
A leftwards traverse along the main break in the central area of the LOWER tier. Start on a good ledge halfway up (or down!) Kelly’s Eye. Move up to the higher (the main one) of the two breaks and gain a standing position on it. Commence a leftwards foot shuffle by two successive precarious reaches for finger holds. After this, easier shuffling via a slight descent gains the left end of the tier. Descend steep grass for 3 metres to gain a system of broad ramps, which lead leftwards to the coast path.

Tater-du > The Seaward Craglets

Race the Waves

25m VD
20-Nov-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
In Lighthouse Zawn, start at the seaward end of the eastern wall of the zawn. Walk leftwards along the narrow ledge at barnacle level, continue across a white wall and a chimney. Move leftwards to the right-hand of the two diagonal breaks, then trend up leftwards to an alcove, between the breaks, from where the top is quickly gained.

Housel Bay to Cadgwith > Pen Olver Sea Cliffs > Prison Zawn

Tar’s Slab

15m S
22-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start on a boulder halfway along the squeeze when approaching from Pen Olver Tower, and 4 metres right of Dark Portal. Trend leftwards up a vague ramp line on the shady face of the stack to good gear at a diagonal break. Continue direct on improving holds to the summit. Descend as for Dark Portal.

Housel Bay to Cadgwith > Pen Olver Sea Cliffs > Prison Zawn

Flutterbye

17m HS 4a
22-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Gangplank below a thin crack in a smooth wall. Climb the thin crack using the large footholds on the right, until a succession of hidden incut slots on the left allow the ledge of Free Sample to be gained. Step back right and follow the thin crack through steeper ground to the top.

Housel Bay to Cadgwith > Bass Point > Bass Point West Cliff

Flaked Out

21m HS 4b
22-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
This route lies 50 metres to the right (facing out) of the cliff containing Concrete Shoes etc. It is approached by abseil or down-climbing a slanting rake, with one awkward step (D). Start at the exact base of the rake. Climb a rib and a slab to gain a green corner. Swing out left on a jug, and continue up flaky slabs to easier ground and the top.

Housel Bay to Cadgwith > Bass Point > Bass Point West Cliff

Ambling Ribs

26m D
22-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
On the cliff containing Concrete Shoes etc, and left (facing in) of the dark central chimney is a large slab topped by a big roof, the slab itself is riven by two diagonal cracks. Start on a good ledge below the right edge of the slab. Gained either, by a tortuous scramble from the left via the rake descent as for Flaked Out; or a direct abseil to the sloping ledge of Inner Tight Spot and a stride across the dark central chimney (all tides, but not heavy seas!). Jug haul up the lower part of the edge. Continue up the now easy-angled upper edge to the level of the big roof. Step right across the chimney, and amble up the ridge to the top.

Housel Bay to Cadgwith > Bass Point > Bass Point West Cliff

Inner Tight Spot

22m S 4a
22-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start on the sloping ledge below the left-hand of two grooves in the right wall of the dark central chimney. The right-hand groove is Outer Space which lies 5 metres below and right. Gain the left-hand groove by abseil, or a tortuous scramble from the left. Climb the left-hand groove, which proves steeper than it looks, to easier ground and the top.

Predannack Head Area > Predannack Main Cliffs > Black Zawn – Little North Wall

Rumpus

15m D
23-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
To the right (north) of the Little North Wall is a small zawn, nevertheless having an impressive but loose black-hued back wall. This wall is bounded on its right by a dark bottomless groove and on its left in its upper reaches by attractive yellow slabs. Approach by scrambling down the ridge on its right (facing out) side to half-height. Then either abseil, or down-climb (D) a corner on the left (facing out) to boulders at the back of the zawn (all tides). Six metres left (facing in) of the descent corner a slabby groove slants up leftwards just left of a large square roof; start here. Climb the slabby groove, with interest at the blanker section, to the ridge.

Predannack Head Area > Predannack Main Cliffs > Black Zawn – Little North Wall

Rhombus

17m VD
23-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 5 metres right of Rumpus and a metre left of the descent corner. Climb a thin crack and a slabby groove leftwards to meet the right side of the large square roof. Pull up rightwards, then step left into the crack above the roof and follow it to the ridge.

Predannack Head Area > Predannack Main Cliffs > Black Zawn – Little North Wall

Slab and Crack

15m VD
23-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
A third of the way down the approach ridge to Rumpus etc is a large yellow boulder, forming a small shelter; start just right (facing in) of here. Cross the wide crack on the right and step onto the yellow slabs. Up these, aiming for the right-hand of two off-width cracks in the steeper wall above. A succession of incut holds enable this crack to be overcome more elegantly than expected.

Predannack Head Area > Predannack Main Cliffs > Black Zawn – Little North Wall

Follow That Star

25m S
23-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
From the large block set back from the top of the Little North Wall, scramble up leftwards (facing in) for 20 metres to a small col on a rib overlooking a dark bottomless groove, a major feature of this part of the zawn; start at the col. Step down leftwards into the dark groove. Move up the groove for 3 metres, then hand traverse the superb flakes horizontally leftwards to reach twin cracks, which lead, in a sensational position to easier ground and the top.

Predannack Head Area > Pedn Clifton Area > Klein Zawn

Magwitch

26m VD
24-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Mavournee. Follow Mavournee to the steep crack. Use the obvious jug to step around left and continue leftwards to discover a left-slanting slabby groove, marked by a square roof on its right-hand side. Finish up this straightforward groove.

Predannack Head Area > Pedn Clifton Area > Klein Zawn

Night Music

16m VS 4b
24-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Jug Dream. Gain the right-slanting groove just right of the shallow groove of Jug Dream and follow it to a dark bulge. Pull over this, and take the next bulge rightwards to reach easier ground. Quite serious in its upper section!

Predannack Head Area > Pedn Clifton Area > Klein Zawn

Flared Path

10m VD
24-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 10 metres above and left of Notincline at a flared groove, just left of a large rock scar. Climb the flared groove with interest.

Predannack Head Area > Predannack Main Cliffs > Black Zawn – Little North Wall

Brooding Beauty

10m S 4b
24-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Approach as for Magic Star and belay at the foot of the beautiful clean groove. Gain the crack in the short overhanging wall on the left and make a committing, but well protected hand traverse leftwards, before moving up to finish up a short corner. Fine climbing!

Predannack Head Area > Predannack Main Cliffs > Black Zawn – Little North Wall

Hornblende

19m S 4a
24-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Hardback. Step up and follow a pleasant leftwards-rising traverse to reach an optional belay at a recess in the left-hand crack of the wall. Move left along a ledge and move awkwardly down into a scoop in the dark wall. Finish up the left side of the scoop.

Predannack Head Area > Predannack Main Cliffs > Black Zawn – Little North Wall

Writer’s Cramp

10m HS 4b
24-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start as for Soft Shell. Climb direct up two successive steep ribs. Eliminate, with a steep unobvious start!

Predannack Head Area > Predannack Main Cliffs > Black Zawn – Little North Wall

Page Turner

11m VD
24-Oct-2018, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Writer’s Cramp, and just left of the descent groove. Climb a slabby rib for 3 metres, then trend leftwards along a gangway to finish up a crack just right of the edge. Add Info:- To avoid confusion, the Little North Wall actually faces WSW! Also Paperback is to the left of Draft!

Logan Rock > The West Face

Vote of No Confidence

12m E1 5b ☆
12-Dec-2018, Matt George and Tom Last
To immediately to the right of ‘No Picnic at Logan Rock’, on the west face of Logan Rock, there is a small subsidiary amphitheatre. On the left side (facing in) of the amphitheatre is a ledge leading up to the base of a slightly overhanging, wide crack. This is the route. Gain the wide crack and follow this to a large a two thirds height. Move to a standing position on the ledge, and make a hard move to gain good jams. Continue up the crack/flake to reach the top of the pinnacle. Step across the gap to reach a comfortable belay position. Scramble upwards to exit. Large cams useful.

Boscawen Point

Loctite

18m VS 4c ☆
29-Dec-2018, RJ Seymour, RL Watson, G Titterton
Start 2 metres left of Bostik (see above, 19.11.18) at a rectangular, yellow sentry box at head height. Climb into this and then up the hand-size crack above to a sloping ledge. Continue up delightful twin cracks above to a protruding, tongue-shaped block on the right. Climb the off-width crack above to finish. Large cams useful.

Boscawen Point

Superglue

9m HS 4b
29-Dec-2018, RJ Seymour, RL Watson
Ten metres left of the main buttress of Boscawen Point (containing Bostik and Loctite) is a separate, slender tower split in its upper part by a crack on the landward face. Start below this. Climb up cracks to a niche, move up and left to gain the base of the crack, finish up this.

Predannack Head Area > Predannack Main Cliffs > Squirrel Zawn

Ghrelin

25m VD
05-Jan-2019, BJ Clarke (solo)
Descend the approach slabs to the level of the start to Astral Blue. Scramble up a ramp on the right (facing out) to a col and descend the other side, before traversing rightwards (facing out) for 15 metres to gain the foot of a large chimney; start here. Follow the rock ridge into the chimney and move up it for 3 metres. Climb the ramp up leftwards to gain the edge of the buttress, a few steep moves up the short rib above gains the top.

Predannack Head Area > Predannack Main Cliffs > Squirrel Zawn

Beta-Amyloid

16m S 4a
05-Jan-2019, BJ Clarke (solo)
At the right-hand (facing out) entrance to the zawn is a rounded buttress with a wide crack in its seaward face (the approach to Ghrelin passes over the top of this buttress). Start on a boulder below and right of the wide crack (mid tide and below). Stride across and hand traverse leftwards to gain a niche below the wide crack. Overcome the steep start to the wide crack by using the rib on its right and continue more easily.

Predannack Head Area > The Beginners’ Area

Pandora

12m D
05-Jan-2019, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 15 metres right of Sexygenarians at an attractive rib, bounding the broken walls to their right, and just before the greasy gully.

Predannack Head Area > The Beginners’ Area

Coastal Roller

8m S 4a
05-Jan-2019, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 2 metres right of Trixie’s Tap Dance and pull through a bulge, before teetering up the edge.

Vellan Head Area > Soap Rock to Kynance Cove > Soap Rock > Gew-graze

Nile Shadow

15m VS 4b
06-Jan-2019, BJ Clarke (solo)
Ten metres right of Madam Eglantine is a pyramid-shaped ridge which forms the abseil point for the high tide approach. Its lower section comprises smooth red rock; whilst the upper section is yellow and more shattered. Start 6 metres up the gully to the left of the ridge at the right-hand of two right-slanting ramps (mid tide and below). Follow the ramp awkwardly and pull through the bulge. Continue to the edge and finish up this. Descent:- Scramble down rightwards (facing in) and so reach the beach.

Vellan Head Area > Soap Rock to Kynance Cove > Soap Rock > Gew-graze

Giza Grooves

15m S 4b
06-Jan-2019, BJ Clarke (solo)
Six metres right of Nile Shadow the seaward face is broken and featureless, and terminates at a blunt rib on the right after 10 metres. Start just right of the blunt rib below two left-trending grooves. Climb the grooves and finish up the upper edge.

Vellan Head Area > Soap Rock to Kynance Cove > Soap Rock > Gew-graze

Cairo Crack

12m S 4a
06-Jan-2019, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Giza Grooves. Pull awkwardly into the base of a broken groove. Tiptoe up rightwards along a small ramp to gain a fine short crack. Up this to a ledge and finish rightwards up the headwall.

Lizard Point > Coastguard Cliffs > Rocket Rocks

Karnak

11m S 4a
07-Jan-2019, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Best Foot Forward. Climb delicately up the slab to the overhang, pull through this 1 metre left of the wide crack and continue to the top.

Lizard Point > Coastguard Cliffs > Rocket Rocks

Underworld

33m D
07-Jan-2019, BJ Clarke (solo)
Ninety metres left (facing out) of the view point is another, grassier viewpoint. To its right (facing out) it has a dark zawn with a black slab forming its right (southern) side. A direct abseil into this zawn would be fraught with danger due to the upper loose ground. Therefore scramble down a stepped subsidiary ridge to the right (facing out) of the zawn; and cross the boulders (all tides) to gain the foot of the black slab. Keep low and follow the thin crack rightwards to the edge of the slab. Move up and climb a crunchy groove with care to a ledge on the main ridge (optional belay). Scramble up this to the top.

Lizard Point > Coastguard Cliffs > Rocket Rocks

Ortolan

30m S 4a
07-Jan-2019, BJ Clarke (solo)
To the left (facing out) of the dark zawn of Underworld and on the other (south) side of the grassy viewpoint is an area of slabs broken by overlaps. Gained by abseil straight down to a small comfortable ledge 5 metres above a sea channel (mid tide and below). Climb up rightwards and pull through the overlap 2 metres right of a niche. Continue directly to the top.

Lizard Point > Hollywood Walls

Continuity

25m D
07-Jan-2019, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start just above the narrow descent ramp at a flat boulder in the wide gully below a groove with small yellow-flecked overhangs on its left-hand side. Climb steep rock and continue up the groove, pulling directly over the final overhang to easier ground. Either belay here and scramble down and across to The Suntrap, or continue to the top.

Black Head and Coverack Area > Black Head > The Black Amphitheatre

Tantalize

9m S 4a
08-Jan-2019, BJ Clarke (solo)
Forty metres above and right of Banjo is a steep wall with an overlap, bounded to its left by a slabby, grassy corner. Start below this corner. Move up the corner for 3 metres and make steep moves rightwards to reach a golden niche in the steep wall. Continue steeply to a sudden easing and the top.

Black Head and Coverack Area > Black Head

Stranger in Paradise

11m VD
08-Jan-2019, BJ Clarke (solo)
Start 1 metre right of Mavra at a left-slanting groove (low tide). Climb the left-slanting groove to the sloping ledge and finish up the shallow stepped groove in the narrow buttress above.

St Loy Cliff > Eastern Buttresses

Goddess of Retribution

15m E8 ☆☆☆
03-Feb-2019, Martin Cathrow
A climb of superlative quality centred on the stunning arête of Gloy Buttress. Better and harder than Skyfall. Start at an obvious, detached triangular shaped pinnacle flake at the base of the seaward face, just left of the arête (looking in). Amble to the top of the triangular flake, then gain the prominent flake above, use the flake to allow a swing leftward into a comfortable position and good gear. Move back rightwards to gain a standing position upon the prominent flake. Make a difficult sequence directly upwards on poor holds to gain a chicken-head. Use the chicken-head to allow a stretch rightwards to the arête. Move up the arête until a precarious position allows gear to be placed around to the right. Once this is achieved follow the arête to the top on its left hand side.

Porthgwarra Buttress & Hella Point > Panda Buttress

While Others Queued

20 D
20-Apr-2019, RJ Seymour, DJ Viggers, DS Linnett
A diversion while waiting for the right time to start Helluva Slab. At the inner end of the zawn between Hella Wall and Panda is a bowl of badly-decomposing rock and strewn blocks. A wide, low-angled but solid ridge of rock stands up and right (looking out to sea) of the bowl. The ridge has two arrowhead-shaped flakes perched at half-height and a wide decomposing chimney to the right. Start at the toe of the buttress. Climb directly up the ridge and onto the arrowhead-shaped flakes, which are completely detached but solidly-jammed in place, continue up the more slabby top half of the ridge on fantastic holds. Slight but fun.

Cudden Point Area > Cudden Main Cliff

Route Comment: All

01-Jan-1970,
The Reckoning to The Groover (6 routes) have fallen down Crispy Crack to Boom Boom Pachydern (4 routes) are less than 10m high. The Summoning (repeated) is nearer VS than S, call it HS. New route “No Hope” start where The Reckoning used to start and climbs up and left (of the major rockfall area), finishing up a shallow groove (which is also the site of a recent rockfall); 15m Difficult, N Barry, T Rodford (both solo)

Porth Loe Cove

Loecal Enterprise

20m VS 4c
12-May-2019, RJ Seymour, JR Mann
Start on ledges 8 metres right of Zagzigga (CC new route archive 21.3.16), about 3 metres left of a flat-topped, block which stands in front of the main face at sea level, at the base of a right-facing crack. The ledges can be reached at low tide by boulder hopping along the western side of Porth Loe Cove. Climb the crack to a ledge at 8 metres, move up and right to a corner and climb this to finish.

Porth Loe Cove

Zagzigga Direct

19m MVS 4b
12-May-2019, JR Mann, RJ Seymour
Start as for Zagzigga (CC new route archive 21.3.16). Where that route climbs left up the stepped ramp, climb direct up thin twin cracks and continue directly up the wall above to finish. Protection is good but fiddly to place. Silverado HS 4b repeated, grade confirmed. Good moves.

Porth Loe Cove

Loe and Behold

20m VD
19-May-2019, RJ Seymour, JR Mann
Start a metre or so right of the leftward-rising, stepped rake of Zagzigga (CC new route archive 21.3.16). Climb rightwards up nice, slabby rock into a prominent, right-facing corner crack. Climb up this until a couple of metres below the top. Move out to the left onto the front of the buttress in a fine position, climb direct to finish. Belay well back some metres higher. Moving out left near the top avoids some brittle-looking loose rock at the top of the corner crack. Once cleaned out, the logical way would be straight up the corner crack to finish.

Porth Loe Cove

Loe Energy

20m HS 4b
19-May-2019, RJ Seymour, JR Mann
An enjoyable pitch. Start below a crack at the left-hand end of the broken-off, block tower that stands in front of the cliff at the right-hand end of the wide, sea-level ledges. This is three metres right of the start of Loecal Enterprise (CC new route archive 12.5.19). Satisfying and well protected all the way. Climb the crack direct to finish up a small, left-facing corner crack (same finish as Loecal Enterprise). Good belay a few metres higher.

Housel Bay to Cadgwith > Chough’s Ogo

Cornish Roulette

50m E5 6a ☆☆
07-Sep-2018, Pat Littlejohn, Dave Garner
Ascends the big wall, giving a serious zawn climb unlike anything else on The Lizard. Approach easily via the fisherman’s path on the spur beside beside Chough’s Ogo and then traverse fairly easily into the zawn at any state of the tide. Take plenty of small to medium nuts and cams. Start below the L side of the huge flake at 10m.

Climb the initial wall and chimney to the top of the flake. Pull L-wards through the overhangs to gain some small ledges, then trend L, Putin runner (Russian titanium piton), to reach a line of thin, discontinuous cracks up the face. Continue direct for 12m to a large flat shelf at the second of two horizontal breaks. Traverse L then continue up the L side of the wall to belays high in a corner. Finish up the rock above to the clifftop.

Chair Ladder > South-East Buttress

Ghost Walk

20m E4 5c/6a ☆☆
29-Apr-2018, Pat Littlejohn, Dave Garner
Immaculate wall climbing. Start 2-3m L of SE Face Direct. Climb a short-lived crack then make a stiff move to a superb incut pocket. Move up and L to a thin flake (microwire) then climb the pocketed face above to a ledge. Belay on a higher ledge then finish up the rugged buttress.

Chair Ladder > South-East Buttress

Yur!

20m VS
30-Apr-2018, Pat Littlejohn, Dave Garner
Takes the R-slanting crack to the R of Sea Horse, to reach the prominent ‘ears’. Very photogenic from Ash Can Gully.

Porth Loe Cove

Loe Quality

15m MVS 4b
29-Jun-2019, RJ Seymour, JR Mann
A few metres left of the wall containing Zagzigga etc., is a large corner of dark rock which branches higher up into left and right continuation corners. Climb the main corner until it branches. Arrange protection and make a couple of moves left and up on large but awkwardly-placed holds to enter the left continuation corner. Climb this steeply to finish. The line is good but the rock is dubious in places, the clue is in the name.

Porth Loe Cove

Loen Ranger

19m E1 5b
29-Jun-2019, JR Mann, RJ Seymour
Start a little to the right of Zagazigga at the same place that Loe and Behold starts (see CC new route archive). Climb directly up the slab to the base of a steep crack in the protruding wall left of the final corner crack of Loe and Behold. Climb the crack, steeply to an easier finish. Protection is a bit disappointing in the lower section but gets better. Good moves.

Porth Loe Cove

Aftergloe

20m E1 5b ☆
13-Jul-2019, RJ Seymour, JR Mann
A satisfying pitch, could be the best of the recent additions in this area. Start as for Loe Energy (CC new route archive 19 May 2019) at the crack tucked behind the left side of the broken-off, block tower in front of the main cliff (right-hand end of the wide, sea-level ledges). Climb the crack, step onto the block tower. Step off onto the steepening slab behind move up on rounded holds, protection in the slightly flared crack on the right. Move up the centre of the wall with a long move to reach a break running horizontally under bulging rock above, small cams. Clear the bulge strenuously using an irregular crack/weakness that runs down through the bulge to reach easier ground. Finish directly.

Chair Ladder > Pinnacle Gully Area

Hairy MaCcleary

22m VD ☆
03-Aug-2019, Iain Peters, Radka Kolenovska, Cecilia Kolenovska
Chair ladder, Pinnacle Gully area (page 159 of new guide) Hairy MaCcleary, 22m, VD*, Iain Peters, Radka Kolenovska, Cecilia Kolenovska, 3/8/19 From the lowest point of the wall 2m right of route 20 climb the arete in its entirety.

Chair Ladder > Pinnacle Gully Area

Thirteen Pancakes

25m D
04-Aug-2019, Paul Headland, Ella Headland, Kate Headland
Thirteen Pancakes, 25m D, Paul Headland, Ella Headland, Kate Headland, 4/8/19 From the ruddy red ‘pankake’ feature 2m left of route 19 climb the short wall to a grassy ledge at 5m, continue up the wall above on good holds.

Porth Loe Cove

Frontal Loebotomy

12m HS 4b
08-Sep-2019, RJ Seymour, JR Mann, E Rogers
A series of small ledges run leftwards along the base of the cliff from Silverado below Nougat, Nugget and Clamity (see CC new route archive 18 March 2016) ending at a large corner that drops steeply into the sea, opposite the inward end of the block island just offshore across a deep channel. A couple of metres before the corner is a triangular ledge below a left-facing corner composed of black rock. On the left wall of the corner a small overlap runs horizontally across it at two-thirds height. Start on the triangular ledge. Bridge up the corner until forced onto the right wall on flat holds. Reach the right arete, finish more easily. Other information: Zagzigga Direct repeated, grade S 4a not MVS 4b Loecal Enterprise repeated, grade confirmed Loe Energy repeated, grade S not HS Loen Ranger repeated, grade probably fair, possibly a bit soft.

Logan Rock > The Logan Rock

Getting Back What We Never Lost

15m HVS 5a
01-Feb-2020, Matt George and Tommy Yorke
To the right of Jack Yer Body is a wide chimney, presumably first climbed in antiquity. Immediately to the right of the chimney, a thin seam rises up rightwards to a a large flake. Make a bold move up to this and then get established in the large horizontal break. An awkward moves gains the wide crack above. Udge up this to a large vegetated ledge and then follow the continuation crack for a further to metres to top out right next to the Logan Rock itself. High in the grade.

Boscawen Point

The Boscawen Sanction

10m HVS 5a ☆
24-Mar-2019, JR Mann, RJ Seymour
The left hand crack of the buttress. Climb a short slab to reach the triangular block at the bottom of the crack. Climb onto the block into a shallow leaning groove and continue up the crack above by a combination of good, bad and ugly jamming and laybacking. Quite sustained. A great little pitch.

Boscawen Point

Turn Right, Clyde

10m HVS 5a ☆
26-May-2019, Stu Bradbury
Start just right of The Boscawen Sanction at the next very undercut crack. Enter strenuously and continue up widening cracks to finish.

Boscawen Point

The Enforcer

10m HVS 5b ☆
26-May-2019, Stu Bradbury
A few metres right of Turn Right, Clyde is a small pedestal and a widening overhung crack above. Climb up to the pedestal and into the crack above using a variety of interesting techniques.

Boscawen Point

Dirty Harry

10m E1 5b ☆
30-Mar-2019, Adrian Parsons, James Mann
Enter the crack right of The Enforcer. Fight upwards.

Pordenack Point Area

Route Comment: Stone Boom, Pordenack Point, Route 28

01-Jan-1970,
P1 substantially changed by rockfall (2014-2020, top and bottom of break gone, now seems stable) 5c, follow King crab crack until possible to step right and up to the break follow the break with scant feet to a awkward niche,step awkwardly round the arete and follow the right wall to the belay. P2 unchanged. Note: climbed in this state by others prior to our ascent.

Predannack Head Area

Farewell My Lovely

10m S
30-Aug-2020, Andy March
On the buttress containing The Deepest Cut etc. This is the first route (AFAIK) on the rock below the descent ramp. Start about 10 metres right of the bottom of The Deepest Cut. Climb an open groove to a small overlap, pull over onto a smooth slab which leads to the descent ramp.

Fox Promontory

Lovely Cruise

36m HVS 5b
20-Sep-2020, FA: S. Salmon, B. Warburton, P. Thompson (as HS A1 with 5pts aid) 19-9-1981 – First Recorded Free Ascent: B. Carver, C. Hall (both solo as DWS) 20-09-2020
Revised description: The following route, formerly climbed with aid, has now received free ascents. What is believed to be the first recorded free ascent was done in deep water solo style and is described and graded here accordingly. Lovely Cruise 36m HVS 5b [S3 5+] 19-09-1981 / 20-09-2020 The chimney at the back of the zawn was originally reached by a short aid traverse giving an outing of HS A1. Now free, the route offers a low crux, above deep water, accessible on all but the highest of tides. 1. 18m 5b. From the wedged boulder, traverse easily rightwards to where a short section of crimping along a horizontal seam leads to the chimney which is gained by striding across to the opposite wall at the earliest opportunity. Ascend the chimney to a stance at a jammed boulder. 2. 18m 4b. Climb the chimney, moving behind a huge jammed boulder to gain a ledge on the left wall. A corner on the left leads to a short finishing crack. First Ascent: S. Salmon, B. Warburton, P. Thompson (at HS A1 with five knife-blade pegs for of aid); 19th September 1981. First Recorded Free Ascent: B. Carver, C. Hall (both solo); 20th September 2020. (Free ascent was a deep water solo, with no splashdowns and virtually on-sight, although we had traversed the easy section into the zawn prior to this.)

Trewavas > Trewavas Main Cliff

Salmonproof

12m MS 4a
03-Jun-2021, Sam Salmon, Dylan Salmon
This route lies on The Ridge A nice technical pitch, sustained at a pleasant level. At the extreme left end of the crag, above the descent path/scramble and to the left of Nerth, is a seaward facing slab with a flake/crack up its left side and large fallen blocks at the base. Climb the crack to a shallow scoop. From this make a long stride up to the right, mantel onto a good foot ledge and so to the top. Small cam useful to protect the long stride.

Black Head and Coverack Area > Black Head > The Black Amphitheatre

Retrograd

25m VS 5a ☆
25-Aug-2021, Adrian Gude and Mark Sage
An alternative start to Black Dyke. When combined with Petrograd, gives a good VS multi-pitch climb. From the start of Black Dyke, traverse 5m to the obvious vertical crack (mid to low tide required). Climb the crack to join Black Dyke at the top of the first pitch.