New Routes – Moelwynion & Cwm Lledr

Y Moelwynion > Craig y Clipiau

Route Comment: Africa Rib

Submitted by: Ken Daykin
01-Jan-1970,
Firstly there are no longer two iron stakes at the start and there is no Rowan tree on the first belay ledge (as clearly shown in the photo on page 206 of the new guidebook). With both chimneys looking hideous the only reasonable start is up the nose of the so called ‘Block Pinnacle’ (as shown in the excellent photograph on page 205). This would more correctly be named as the overhanging nose of the rib. The problem with climbing the nose is that you need to be very strong, able to lock-off on your left arm and have telescopic arms to reach the next jug (not what you expect on a V Diff!). In addition, although the move is well protected by a large wire, if things go wrong the landing is very unpleasant and will almost certainly be on your back. So what is a V Diff leader supposed to do? Alternative start at V Diff standard: Further left from the left-hand chimney is an easy angled slab, decorated with two or three heather bushes (can just be seen in the bottom left corner of the photo on page 206). Climb this slab until it is possible to follow a ramp line rightwards to join the main rib and so on to the first belay ledge (where the rowan tree used to be). This is still good climbing and at V Diff standard and just requires skill and balance not massive arm strength.

Cwm Lledr > Craig y Tonnau

Route Comment: Badger Power

Submitted by: Martin Whitaker
01-Jan-1970,
First Ascent details of this route are incorrect. Should read R. Haszko & M. Whitaker (NOT J. Whittaker). 25-03-2007.

Y Migneint > Cerrig y Leirch

The Bulge

8m HS 4b
20-Apr-2022, Stephen Bates, Matt Chinner
On the right side of the buttress, starting 6ft right of Glas y Gorlan. Pull on good jugs through the bulge to join the slab and continue up with ease.

Cwm Lledr > Carreg Alltrem

Route Comment: Midgicide

First Ascent Paul Harrison, Mike Snell 1.6.90

Y Moelwynion > Clogwyn yr Oen

Route Comment: Welsh Insurrection

First Ascent Paul Harrison, Steve Boydon 17.5.90 top end E3 and quite good!

Cwm Lledr > Craig Rhiw Goch

Route Comment: Rip Van Winkle

First Ascent Steve Boydon, Mike Snell, Paul Harrison 2.6.90

Y Moelwynion > Craig yr Wrysgan

Route Comment: Peach Melba

First Ascent Steve Boydon, Paul Harrison 6.5.91 AL This and a number of other routes have first ascent details mysteriously omitted from current guidebook

Manod & the Town Crags > Maenofferen Plateau Walls

Merlin

15m E3 5c ☆
09-Oct-2021, Stu Lade
Up the centre of the wall in the bay. A bouldery start, then good gear before climbing directly on crimps. Easier climbing up the slab to finish. Between “Picture This” and “Rib and Slab” Not sure of the exact grade, quite bouldery and fluffable start on not perfect gear and bad landing, then a harder section on good gear, to much easier climbing above. Abseiled the line to clean out the cracks for gear placements but not practiced prior to ascent. Could maybe be E4 6a?

Cwm Lledr > Clogwyn yr Adar

Igam Ogam

35m HVS 5b ☆☆☆
21-Jun-2022, Andy Taylor Sam Hawkins

This is the obvious traverse line of the crag, starting high up in the gully to the right of the crack of Enterprise Allowance. At about 2/3 height of the crag a situ rope protects access to the start of the first pitch. Take a belay on the access rope and small tree. 1. 20m 5b A tricky step down gains the traverse line. Follow the break leftwards with big holds and excellent protection, crossing lots of top quality up and down routes. A black thread and a peg on Boss Talkers marks the crux of pitch 1, where careful footwork left lands you on better holds very quickly. Continue traversing up left, to belay beneath the orange guano streaked wall. Peg and nut belay, peg needs a thin tape. 2. 15m 4c/5a Now follow the break back right, around a slightly hollow flake, and keep going right in a fantastic position. Cross a hanging slab rightwards (possible both high and low) to a flake. Continue right and right again, all very exposed, to finish at the far right of the buttress right above the finish of Enterprise Allowance and John Damocles. The name means Zigzag in Welsh.

Cwm Lledr > Clogwyn yr Adar

Igam Igam

38m E1 5b ☆☆☆
21-Jun-2022, Andy Taylor Sam Hawkins

This is a long single pitch, starting along Igam Ogam, pitch 1, but then continuing up and left and over the central chimney. We started along the break, but it would be better to start up the initial crack of Enterprise Allowance, as far as the break, then continue left, giving a 45m top end E1 5b. With our start it’s a little bit shorter, so maybe a little bit easier. The crux orange wall and overhang is hard to read, and comes at the end when your belayer is a long way away! We climbed Enterprise Allowance immediately after the first ascent, the crack is about 4c/5a and is very well protected. Original way. Start as for Igam Ogam, climb to the end of pitch one, clip the peg, place gear and climb the orange wall moving left to a situ thread. There is a good wire next to it, and the thread does need backing up. Then reach up and left, over the chimney (exposed) on very steep ground to a good ledge over the overhang. Continue left and then up the easy juggy wall in tremendous position. Diagram shows Igam Ogam in red, and Igam Igam, the green lefthand finish. Igam Ogam means Zigzag in Welsh. Igam Igam therefore is pretty self explanatory!

Y Migneint > Bryn Castell

Super Infinity

VS 4c ☆
30-Sep-2022, A Hayes, M Griffiths

The distinctive arete on the right hand buttress, steady but with spaced protection. Start on the left hand wall and gain and traverse a shelf to reach the arete proper. Climb this fairly easily on good rock in a fine position, to the best finishing holds on the crag. FA Sept 2022 Provisional Grade VS/HVS 4b/4c

Y Migneint > Bryn Castell

Dead End

E4 5c ☆
31-Oct-2022, M Thompson, C Kirchner

Great moves with a good runout up the blunt right arete of the buttress. Climb the scruffy lower rib to gain a glacis and then a small ledge up and right. Swing left into FWA to place medium cams and reverse back, then blast up the prow above on spaced jugs and sidepulls to an easier finish. Provisional Grade E4/5 5c/6a */**

Y Migneint > Bryn Castell

End Times

E3 5b ☆☆
30-Sep-2022, M Thompson, A Hayes

The crack and prow left of Food with Altitude. A similar and equally fine sibling to End Action at Carreg Y Foel Gron, taking the high prow direct. Pull over the bulge right of the arete to gain the thin crack, then continue up the slab directly to ledges and fiddly gear before the prow. Yard up this on jugs to a committing and blind pull onto the slab to finish (worth checking finishing holds are clean).

Cwm Lledr > Craig y Tonnau

Robbin the rich to pay the poor

12m VD 4a ☆
01-Apr-2023, Mandy Glanvill, Claire Maw
Start between LLech Fudur and Ysgol Fwsoglyd, below a small but defined spike. Climb over the spike and straight up finishing up a small arête.

Y Moelwynion > Craig Llyn Cwm Orthin Isaf

Summer Escapades

10m VS 4c
20-Aug-2023, Anna Riley
Climb the steep crack on the right hand side of the pinnacle, to the left of Tactile Delinquent.

Y Moelwynion > Craig yr Wrysgan

Vaccine

22m E4 6a ☆☆
28-Apr-2024, D Evans, M Doyle
Climbs the crack in the vague prow between Viral Assassin and Viral Overload, best gained via the thin flake on the left. Climb the crack and head left to jugs on Viral Assassin. Move up onto the slab to a diagonal crack on the right which provides protection for a tricky finishing mantelshelf.