Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.
Submitted by : Dylan Burgess
Area : Lleyn
Crag : Tyn Tywyn Quarrys
Date of ascent : 26th April 2008
Route Name : Cyan
Length/grade/stars : 40ft E2 5b
Climbers : Dylan Burgess
Start location:
Quarry 2 (the car park) at the far end right of the
route slash and burn and just left of the point
where the cliff deteriorates into the hillside is an
obvious small blank slab topped by some large loose
looking blocks.
Pitch descriptions:
40ft - Start approx 2 metres left of a dirty
looking crack (out of bounds) climb the slab direct
on small edges to the loose looking blocks to top
out in the gorse bushes. fairly bold as no
protection till about 35ft up.
Additional info:
Lead after abseil inspection to check the soundness
of the top blocks. |
 Submitted by: Peter Davies
Area: Lleyn
Crag: Craig Dorys
Date of Ascent: 25/5/09
Route Name: Vince's Finest Pineapple Rings
Length/Grade/Stars: 100ft / E4 6a,5c / *
Climbers: Tim Marsh and Peter Davies
Start Location:
On the West facing wall immediately to the right of the Golden Wall. Start 15ft right of the corner taken by Vroom 23. Good steep climbing with some loose rock.
Pitch Descriptions:
Pitch 1, 50ft. Climb a steep wall to a rising breakline at 15ft (good protection in break). Climb the steep groove above to a good rest beneath a hanging corner (small wires and RPs). Make committing moves into the corner on some suspect holds, then move left to belay on the large halfway ledge.
Pitch 2, 50ft. Gain and then climb the prominent V groove in the upper part of the cliff (perfect protection in back of groove). There are good belays approx 50ft down the slope behind the cliff top.
Additonal info: Pitch 1 was led less directly on the first onsight attempt and was then reclimbed later the same day to give the better, more direct line described here. Pitch 2 was led onsight as described. |
Submitted by : Nick Bullock
Area : Lleyn
Crag : Craig Dorys Stigmata Buttress
Date of ascent : 2/9/10
Route name : Blood Meridian.
Length/grade/stars : 120 ft E6 6a
Climbers : Nick Bullock, Graham Desroy
Start location:
Approach as for Cripple Creek. The climb starts in the clean cut right facing corner on the farthest point right of the same wide ledge that cripple creek starts.
Pitch descriptions:
Climb the open book corner on solid rock until stood on the right side of the same ledge that cripple creek passes. Step right from the ledge and up, using some solid crispy red wafers to the first peg. Climb up and slightly right, pinching large layaways until a second peg is reached. Creaking flakes and technical wall climbing reach an overlap which is passed with the use of an obvious horn of rock. Strenuous and bold. Moves past the third peg (crux)lead to some good gear in crunchy brown rock. Climb direct with good gear until stood on a wide ledge. Climb the blunt arete on the left using holds on both sides of the arete until beneath the roof at its largest. Using big holds on the right and pockets on the left pull the roof (wild and very satisfying) Climb direct, by laybacking the sharp arete above and using knee bars and sidepulls until it is possible to rockover on good holds onto and reach a monster crozzle pocket.
Additional info:
3 pegs insitu. The 1st is a blade which needs tying off. The second peg is bomber. The 3rd peg wobbles a tad but is good. More info on www.dmmwales.com |
including Area, Crag and Route Name.