New Routes - Carneddau & Crafnant

Note: New routes have been submitted by climbers, many non CC members. They have not been verified by the CC and descriptions may be misleading or inaccurate. Climbers use the information and climb at their own risk

Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.

Please send comments to: including Area, Crag and Route Name.

Submitted by : Simon Gwyn Roberts
Area : Ogwen (Carneddau 1993 guide)
Crag : Tree Slab, Carnedd y Filiast
Date of ascent : 12/05/2008
Route Name : Crystalline Crack
Length/grade/stars : 35m/120ft, HVD, 0
Climbers : Simon Gwyn Roberts, Alwyn Williams
Start location:
Takes the obvious left-most crack on Tree Slab (between Friction and White Lightning - routes detailed in the 1993 Carneddau guidebook). Tree Slab is the small, steep slab to the right of the Filiast Slabs (left of Red Slab).

Pitch descriptions:
Climb straight up to the quartz-lined crack on the left of the slab. Climb the crack past two trees to a ledge and possible belay. Finish direct up the juggy arete.

Submitted by : John H Bull
Area : Carneddau
Crag : Carreg Mianog - far right hand buttress (rally lower Creigiau Hirion)
Date of ascent : 22/05/2010
Route name : Bitter Hop
Length/grade/stars : 20m, E1 5ab, one star
Climbers : John H Bull
Start location:
New crag. Approach as for Carreg Mianog, but pass underneath and head for a clean buttress up and right (687621), with a clean slabby south face and a blunt nose on the right. Good, compact rock - excellent on this route.

Pitch descriptions:
1. 30m. Romp up the obvious rightward-slanting crack to a thread. Move left and up to a small ledge, aiming for a groove left of the main nose, then wonder why you ever came. The groove above appears daunting but holds appear as height is trepidatiously gained. Not sure that the grade reflects the real difficulties, felt bold for E1, but then I'm a wimp.

Additional info:
Onsight

Approach and topo

Submitted by : John H Bull
Area : Carneddau
Crag : Carreg Mianog - far right hand buttress (rally lower Creigiau Hirion)
Date of ascent : 22/05/2010
Route name : The Petrified Florist
Length/grade/stars : 14m, HVS 5a
Climbers : John H Bull, unseconded
Start location:
New crag. Approach as for Carreg Mianog, but pass underneath and head for a clean buttress slightly up and right (687621), with a clean slabby south face and a blunt nose on the right. Good, compact rock.

Pitch descriptions:
1. Start at the left hand end of the buttress, climb a groove and rather heathery crack to a stiff exit. Several small-mid-sized cams useful.

Additional info:
Some minor gardening on ab.