New Routes - Lundy

Announcement: Click to view - Knight Templar Rocks: Supplement to the 2008 Lundy Guidebook

Note: New routes have been submitted by climbers, many non CC members. They have not been verified by the CC and descriptions may be misleading or inaccurate. Climbers use the information and climb at their own risk

Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.

Please send comments to: including Area, Crag and Route Name.

Potential future bird restriction (provided by Alan Evans): This year 2008, in May, there were Ravens nesting on the ledge just below the top on Destiny, they had chicks and we had to report it to the warden and the crag was banned. If you are planning at trip then keep an eye on this in case they make it a regular site, as in the past Landing Craft has been exempt from bans, this will no longer be the case if the Ravens make it a regular home.

Submitted by : Jack Griffiths
Area : Lundy
Crag : Arch Zawn p319
Date of ascent : 07/09/2009
Route name : Codpiece
Length/grade/stars : E1, 5a, 5a, 1star
Climbers : Jack Griffiths, Trystan Jones-Morris
Start location:
The route follows the slabby arete right of "Front Piece" and left of "Today" taken on it's left, seaward, side.

Pitch descriptions:
Pitch One: 19m From the ledge below "Front Piece" step down slightly and right to reach the arete. Head up the arete, small wires protect, in a fine position to reach a flake on the left. Step away from the arete just long enough to gain the top of the flake. Resist the temptation to escape left and make a committing move back onto the arete and up to the ledge and belay. Pitch Two: As for pitch two of "Stop Press".

Additional info:
No fixed gear used. Style of ascent was On-sight. No known repeats as yet.

Submitted by : Robin Nicholson
Area : Lundy
Crag : Inland Buttress East of Seal Slab Area
Date of ascent : 27/09/2009
Route name : Debbie Jane Fay
Length/grade/stars : 20 metres, Hard Severe, 4a, 1 star
Climbers : Robin Nicholson, Joe Killick
Start location:
Buttress Location: Refer to map diagram in new guide (2008) on page 293 or click to view a pdf. This slab buttress is the second buttress due east inland of the Easter Island shaped blocks by the Ocean PromontorySeal Slab area. On the map in the guide this is shown as one large continuous buttress but it is actually two.

Pitch descriptions:
“Debbie Jane Fay” 20m Hard Severe 4a. 1 Pitch. Route Description: A surprisingly pleasant gritstone-esque excursion up the centre of the slab. Start at the centre of the slab at a hollow sounding flake. Follow the shallow groove up and right to reach the obvious rightward-slanting flake and good holds. Continue direct to a rounded finish. Belay at the ‘bollard’ on top of the buttress.

Additional info:
Free Ascent. No repeat.